Saturday, February 6, 2010

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is big, some 14 million persons in the greater metropolitan area, and there is no shortage of eating establishments.  If you want to dine in your apartment or room, there are health food stores that offer gluten-free foods.  Labelled as above, these foods are not hard to pick out.  In fact, a visit to one of these stores can stock you up on 'just in case' foods and provide fare for picnics.  Check out Dietetica Cuarto Soles (Juncal 2376 in Recoleta) and others. Several establishments worked very well for this gluten-free eater.


 Celigourmet (Thames 1633, Palermo Soho) is a totally gluten-free bakery in Palermo Soho.  Yes, the 'Soho' is a gimmick, but Palermo is a fun area to wander about, and Celigourmet offers great pastries and other portable delights. They offer a limited supply of bread

         Celigourmet--A happy pile of yummies.        

Muma's Cupcakes (Malabia 1680, Palermo Soho) is not exclusively a gluten-free bakery, and I can not speak to their contamination protocols in the kitchen, but I can speak to the rich chocolate and sweet cream that slid between my lips in the company of a fine little coffee.

Muma's Cupcakes--What's rich, hypercaloric, and gone in thirty seconds?

Don Julio (Guatemala 4691 and Gurruchaga) is a parilla (restaurant focused on meat) also in Palerma Soho.  The food, being fairly straightforward, appeared quite safe.  The bife lomo (tenderloin) was tender and tasty, while the sweetbreads (thymus) was meaty in the mouth, a bit spongey in appearance, and not overly gamy.  The vegetables were steamed to the point of mush, but the real vegetable, the Goulart 2007 Malbec, hit the spot.

A diner can not live on meat alone. 

Freddo is a chain offering coffee, a few (non-GF) pastries, and ice cream, including a great selection of ice cream specifically marked gluten-free.  They use individual spoons in each tub, which means you are as close to safe as you will get.  Cultural exploration demands that you sample the dulce de leche flavour.

Argentina

Vegetable Stand, Argentina

If you need a little time in a place far away, in a place with beautiful and varied landscapes, and in a place where the people are as friendly as the food is....meaty...then consider a visit to Argentina.

Argentina the Gluten-Free:  Argentina lends itself to gluten-free eating.  First, the food is kept fairly simple.  Argentinians really do eat a lot of meat (a remarkable 70kg per person annually), but they don't mess it up with overdone sauces.  This leaves little to worry about for the GF eater.  And the official vegetable of Argentina--red wine--is well known to be gluten-free.  Truthfully, vegetables play second fiddle, but they are generally also simply done.

Just as good as this is Argentinian labeling.  Like our European friends, the Argentinians have the little symbol with the wheat stricken off.  Yes, that little 'no gluten' sign that celiacs view with the glee of a jaded lover watching his ex get a flat tire.  They also have a "Sin TACC" label, meaning "without the four nasty grains".  There are, of course, many foods that contain no apparent wheat but which are not so labeled.  While helpful, this can be a double-edged sword.  A greater than expected proportion of waitstaff, and even retail staff, appeared to be aware of the gluten issue.  On occasion, however, this awareness appeared quite superficial, as if understanding was limited to "labeled safe" or "not labeled safe".  While good to know, limiting yourself to "certified" food would be very restrictive.  This is a good argument for learning a bit of the local language.  Sorting this out is not always possible in English.  

Where can I eat?    From restaurants to cafes to gluten-free specialty stores, Argentina can feed you well.  Check out the posts under the Argentina heading.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Rude Native

370 Brant Street
Burlington, Ontario
905-632-6682

Type of cuisine: bistro
Date of Review: December, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Anxious to Cautiously Comfortable

Description:  It was a weeknight when we ventured out to the Native.  Although weekends typically lend a restaurant more energy, you are more likely to have the ear of the waiter on a weeknight if you are navigating a food issue.  So it was in a rather quiet restaurant that we pored over the menu.

The options appear to be reasonable, and the waiter was patient if not aware of the gluten-free issue.  The prices are not particularly cheap, which might not be an issue if the quality of the food was better.  To start, we shared a cold tomato salad with beets and goat cheese.  Likely as a result of low customer volumes, the tomatoes were really quite cold, and the taste of the dressing left the salad ranking as only fair.  As a principal plate, I had halibut with an orange glaze.  Unfortunately, it came off as too simplistically orange, and by texture I suspect it contained corn starch.  It was fine, but nothing to seek out.  Conversely, my fellow diner had the Moroccan curry with couscous, which was reported as good, and might make a soothing spot of pub food.  We both had a glass of wine, but at $11 and $14 for a glass, the Native is charging seriously chic bar rates.  Given the first and second courses, we did not pursue dessert.

Service was fine, if not warm.  The waiter did take the time to question the chef about a gluten issue.  The physical state of the restaurant is unremarkable, and does not warrant the cost of its wine.

The Rude Native may have a few good dishes tucked into its menu, but this first taste left me with relatively little enthusiasm to return and find them.

Maccheroni Cucina Al Fresco

1560 Main Street West
Hamilton, Ontario
(905) 527-6422

Type of cuisine: Italian
Date of Review: January, 2010

Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable

Description:  As a celiac, writing about an Italian restaurant doesn't entirely seem natural.  In my previous life, I sampled a few, but present circumstances make them a challenge.  And all too frequently, the quality of the pasta can be matched by a bit of work at home.

Maccheroni's recognizes that there is a market for gluten-free Italian.  They use a separate colander to strain their (rice) pasta, and they can reportedly make most of their pasta dishes gluten-free.  Although their appetizer selection is limited for GF eaters, they have reasonable salads and also offer GF pizza, which I understand employs the same crust supplied to PizzaPizza.

The menu selection is therefore reasonable.  On this occasion, and admittedly for the second time, I had their baked ziti.  Doused in cream and cheese and containing a generous portion of bacon, this good if heavy dish could readily feed two.  Slightly monotonous, it might go better with the simple greek salad rather than after it.  On this occasion, all three of us originals chose the same dish.  I am told that on past visits the pizza was also good.

Service is friendly and brisk.  On this Tuesday evening, there were enough other diners to give the place a bit of a buzz.  The decor is pseudo-rustic, with plastic vines and interior trellises; it is comfortable, if a little on the shabby side.

Although restaurant Italian food is not typically my first choice, Maccheroni's offers reasonable fair, and I appreciated their efforts at supporting gluten-free dining.  

Monday, November 30, 2009

Relish Bar and Grill

2154 Danforth Avenue
Toronto, Ontario
416-425-4664

Type of cuisine: Tapas
Date of Review: November, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets

Description:    Group dinners with shared dishes usually have 'No Celiacs' written all over them.  But Relish is an exception.  In fact, the dedicated celiac menu has enough variety to satisfy even most gluten loving types.  This menu, which is on a completely different card from the standard tapas menu, contains all of the dishes that are gluten free.  In some cases, necessary alterations are mentioned along with the item, such as "Ask for the balsamic glaze" or "Ask for rice crackers," so don't completely abandon vigilance.  Nevertheless, Relish makes it easy.

Despite the potential sharing option, I chose to go it alone.  Worrying about cross-contamination from serving spoons rather spoils my appetite.  In short, for the several items I did not try, an experienced palate gave an overall ranking of good, with no food item garnering a 'yuck'.  As for what I did try, it was quite enjoyable.

First, partaking of the drink menu, I landed a Yellow Bird.  As long as you're fairly secure with yourself, let this fruity little fella take your tongue off to some tropical island.  When you get back, warm up to the warm olives with jalapeno, a little variety pack of zesty goodness.  The sauteed tiger shrimp was moist and tasty, and came in a crispy little shell.  I gave the latter a bit of space as I was hesitant to question our busy waiter whether it had swum with any wheaty deep-fryer companions.

Moving on, I was happy not to share my grilled lamb special, particularly as the standard lamb empanada is not on the celiac menu.  If you like mushrooms, the grilled portobello also makes nice company.  Next, the roasted eggplant and almond butter dip was a comforting and filling topping for the rice cracker vehicle.  And a nice Ninfa 2005 Portugese red kept everything moving down the sluice. Finally, to finish, can you say no to a flourless chocolate polenta cake?  You do only live once.

As for price, it is possible to incur something of a bill if you are on a solo variety mission, but individual items are not over-priced.  They recommend about 3 dishes per person, but I seemed fine with 5 and dessert....so maybe I have a problem.  Regardless, the service was cheery and food delivery moved along nicely.  The decor is comfortable and casual.  Also, they accommodated our group of 12 with aplomb, but the restaurant is not large, so consider reservations. 

In short, I hope to be back, but I also hope to bring a ravenous hoard of the gluten averse next round.  At Relish, it seems sharing can again be fun and safe.

Thai Memory

25 King William St.
Hamilton, Ontario
(905) 296-1077

Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: November, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking:  Cautiously Comfortable

Description:   Thai Memory is the kind of place you want to like.  It's local, its a bit quirky, and in the heart of downtown Hamilton, it has its work cut out for it.  Ultimately, you will like it, if you summon a little patience.

The menu has an abundance of Thai dishes, many looking very attractive on paper but verboten for the gluten-free eater.  Most of the house specialty dishes unfortunately fall into this category.  Still, there is enough to eat and enough to keep your interest.  The spiciness (heat) of each item is selected by the patron.

Dinner began with fresh vegetarian spring rolls, which were tasty enough.  The accompanying peanut sauce was avoided because of uncertainty over the soy sauce (and thus wheat) content, and the fish sauce substitute took care of my 2009 salt needs.  We also shared the Laab Gai, a spicey ground chicken that was moist and tasty (although places second to a distant competitor, Rod Dee's of Boston).  One of our diners enjoyed the Tom Kha soup with chicken and galangal, which appeared to be full of fresh ingredients.

For the main course, we shared the Pad Thai, a pineapple curry shrimp, and a red chicken curry.  The Pad Thai was tasty without being syrupy.  It was a fair size for one person, but really only a sampler amongst three.  The chicken red curry was tasty and generous, as was the pineapple curry shrimp.   Both used a coconut broth. 

Service was pleasant enough, but decidedly slow.  One couple that came after us sat, waited for their order to be taken, waited some more, then left.  We were pleased that all the tables were full on this Saturday night, but the service could not keep up.  On a previous week-night visit, only three tables were occupied, and service was smooth.  Our overall visit was about two hours in length, which is fine for a relaxed visit but hazardous if you want to catch the 15 advertisements preceeding your evening movie.  The knowledge of the staff regarding ingredients and gluten-free dining was unclear due to time constraints, so we stuck with safer fare.

Quirky is where the decor comes in.  The restuarant is chock-a-block with Thai periphernalia, some of it great for provoking conversation.  Several of the tables and chairs are also eye-catching, seemingly being made of large pieces of driftwood.

In short, Thai Memory left a positive impression, but won us by virtue of being a tasty local restaurant, not by virtue of service.

Le Club Chasse et Peche

423, St-Claude street
Montreal, Quebec
(514) 861-1112

Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: November, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets

Description:  You want to belong to this kind of Le Club.  At the same time, however, you might join a gym.  They are serious about food, and they don't skip the tasty lipids.  The menu is moderate in length, and there is enough to entice any protein seeking diner, but this probably is not the place to bring your vegetarian friends.  The staff appeared informed about gluten, and dinner was pleasantly relaxed. 

For round one, we choose the smoked lamb, the scallops, and the fois gras.  If you were eating completely in the dark, you might have mistaken the lamb for lox.  Sitting on tender beets, subtle bits of goat cheese, and a wondrous creme fraiche, this lamb was as mild as they come.  The scallops were tender and crisp in all the right places, although according to one of our diners, the oil involved in production could have floated a container ship.  No complaints from the eater.  The fois gras also impressed, being given an 8.5/10 from one experienced fois gourmet.  It was a touch large, but had an interesting and tasty companion in a little spice cake.  To wash all this down, we tried a Jean-Michel Gerin 2007 Voignier.  With a straw nose and a touch of oak, it held its own.

All the main plates shone.  The braised boor had spent the previous evening cooking gently, and it was as tender as it was profoundly rich.  Accompanied by perfectly roasted nuts, a light cheese, and roasted figs, it demanded to be eaten in its entirety.  Two of our members tackled the sizable paprika-spiced octopus, and it may have been the most tender little fellow any of us had ever set teeth upon.  It came with a heavenly smoked potato puree, roasted tomato, and roasted eggplant.  The halibut also won accolades.  We went with a wine recommendation for the table for this culinary mix.  The hazard of this is that many of us are disinclined to refuse once the bottle is opened.  A Francois Ecot organic Gamay, this rosé-like number was too light and punch-like.  Unfiltered, it also seemed to effervesce ever so slightly. 

For dessert, two orders of the chocolate and salted caramel tart were happily demolished.  Although all of the usual desserts were gluten containing, an off-the-record pavlova was procured.  Marzipan played Atlas to a coconut ice cream even while swimming in a little pool of delectable creme fraiche.  All this white was offset by a few bright cherries.  What a save!

Service was largely good. Our waiter had the menu memorized to the point that you might have suspected an implant. His presentation was also charming. But he didn't write down our order, and he did forget both the oysters (quite an error at $24 for 6) and the shared vegetables. While far from laudable, we had enough food that we did not point out the omission. Otherwise, the flow of food was timely and well coordinated, liquid refills were automatic, and our waiter kindly did a short marathon to hail a cab.

The physical space appears as a cross between a retro basement rec-room and that fictional jazz bar on Tatooine. It is dark, cozy, and divided nicely so as to minimize noise.

Le Club makes good food.  We've had the fortune to come here before, and you won't have to drag us to get us back again.