Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Nota Bene

180 Queen St. West
Toronto, Ontario
416-977-6400

Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: September, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent

Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets.

Description:  This high quality restaurant manages to scream hip while also giving your mouth something to look foward to.  

To begin, I could happily have eaten any of the appetizers, and I have retained the notion of eating ALL them at a go for some future gluten-possible life.  While having to avoid the deep-fried items (due to cross-contamination risk from breaded items) and a couple of soy sauce (and thus wheat containing) items, the selection for the gluten-free eater was respectable.  And when the waiter rapidly identified the celiac issue from our reservation AND rhymed off these often unidentified risks, my gluten-risk radar went nearly blank across the horizon.

As I received the Nova Scotia lobster salad, the waitress added  "with no croutons" and I melted further into my gluten-free happy place.  It was indeed very good, with bits of bacon and a nice light buttermilk dressing.  Others at the table enjoyed the cripsy duck--which might have been a touch piquant--and the deep-fried parmesan zucchini flowers.  For the main, I had a simple dorade on chanterelles with a side of asparagus.  The rest of the team split up amongst the brisket burger, the scallops, and the pickerel.  All were pleased.

For dessert, research demanded a sampling of the flourless chocolate cake and the Quebec yogourt panna cotta.  The first was rich and warm, and should satisfy anyone's chocolate craving.  The latter was light and airy, a breeze of freshness rounded out with little blueberries.  Although nominally a compote, these little berries seemed rather more firm and independent, if still welcome.

I should point out that all of our dishes could have been smaller; let's pass on the type 2 diabetes, shall we?  Yes, I could have passed on dessert, but really now.

The service was warm, crisp, and informed.  The sommelier paid us a visit, which was kind even if it wasn't necessary.  But a little attention might be appreciated in a restaurant as large as this.  The ambience is upscale modern chic, with linen on the tables, clean abstracts on the wall, and square columns of light that add interest while only minimally overstating their cool. 

All-in-all, Nota Bene deserves kudos for making great fare and for making the gluten-free eater feel at ease.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Thai Cuisine Experts

2011 Plains Road East, Unit 2
Burlington ON, 
905-639-7700

Type of cuisine:  Thai
Date of Review:  September, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking:  Good
Cost:  Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options:  Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable

Description:  The intended theme here is fresh and authentic.  We can vouch for fresh, at least as far as the vegetables are concerned.  As for authentic, although we've not made it to Thailand, we would venture that curry sauces should not need to contain soya sauce.

On this occasion, we began with the fresh shrimp rolls, which really are fresh and full of vegetables.  The peanut dipping sauce contains soya sauce, so the GF eater can opt for the far too salty fish sauce.  Previously, we have had the mango and papaya salad, which was fresh and spicy hot.  For the main, we shared the basil chicken in a spicy sauce and the shrimp with peanuts.  Apart from the basil, these sauces appeared to be the same, although they were good.  The only vegetables included were peppers and onions, and the dishes might have been a little oilier than previous.  We had considered other options, such as a curry or a sweet and sour sauce, but these were wheat containing.

Service is fast enough, although they may be getting busier with take-out.  They seemed a little harried, but the chef, Celine Sharma, is always very friendly and enthusiastic.  The restaurant itself is diner casual, with pictures of menu items and scenes of Thailand on the walls. 

Finally, I note on their web site that no pork is served and all meat is Halal, which might be handy for some.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Seven Windows

432 Aberdeen Avenue
Hamilton, Ontario
905-523-7707

Type of cuisine:  Bistro
Date of Review:  August, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking:  Excellent

Cost:  Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options:  Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets

Description: We have been here on previous occasions, but you might consider this visit, a wedding, a particular test.  I personally don't have the skills to serve dozens simultaneously, but anybody can couch quarterback.  How did the professionals fare?

Seven Windows has prepared good, fresh, food at our previous visits.  Their menu has plenty of variety for the gluten-free diner, although on this occasion the menu was fixed.

To start the evening, there were several hors d'oeuvres.  I can comment on a nice skewered grilled chicken and a satisfying hot mussel in a cheese and herb broth.  Dinner began with vichyssoise, rich in olive oil and bright with chives.  Another diner thought it heavy on the salt, but I did not.  The second course was mesclun greens with goat's cheese wrapped in leeks, accompanied by glazed figs.  It was piquant with garlic and it was fabulous.

Next was lobster ravioli, a food format that typically puts the "Gosh darn!" into gluten-free.  But our chefs came through, producing a gentle mountain of lobster on a light buttery broth.  Out-lobstering my table-mates, I did not feel the poor cousin.  It would be a bit ungracious to point out that the lobster seemed a touch dry, but we are critiquing, after all.

Beef Wellington with a bearnaise sauce anybody?  Not if you are gluten-free!  Again, while serving a large crowd, the chefs came up with a simple but satisfying dish of beef and vegetables.  My grateful meter was now pushing well into the red.

Dessert?  A pavlova, a gluten-free meringue with berries.  It was good enough to have two.... ...I would imagine. 

As for service, it was warm but we concluded that they were short of servers.  Wine was rarely offered, and water was almost off the menu.  The courses moved along quite slowly, with some patrons missing out on dessert as a result.  There was no rush, of course, and each course was very well prepared and still hot, but ideally it would have been stepped up a bit.

Seven Windows is visibly upscale, with rich wood and linen giving it a comfortable feel.  The light is good, as there are really more than seven windows.  If you want a darker setting, consider asking for a seat in the old vault, which invokes great Hamilton mafia images.  Unfortunately, on this hot summer night, the air conditioning was outmatched by the heat of the kitchen and the guests.  It was bye-bye vest and tie before long.  On other occasions, the climate control has not been an issue. 

All-in-all, Seven Windows is a commendable bistro.  The value ranking takes a hit on price, however, which is high for the Hamilton market and no deal from a Toronto perspective either.  While I am the first to cheer on a Hamilton restaurant, I wonder whether it is sustainable at these prices.  With their attention to the gluten-free eater, I am hoping they stick around.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Marathon Grill

Philadelphia, with various locations.

Type of cuisine:
  A brunch visit.
Date of Review:  August, 2009, and some 2 years prior.

Overall Quality Ranking:  Good

Cost:  Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options:  Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable 

Description:  Generous portions of fresh food are amiably served in a casual atmosphere.  The GF visitor had a very good omelette, and the home fries were safe and redolent of rosemary (if a bit—forgiveably--oily).  The non-GF visitor had a very good breakfast quesadilla.  The Marathon Grill also serves dinner.

Le Bec-Fin

1523 Walnut St., Philadelphia, PA
25-567-1000

Type of cuisine:  French Bistro
Date of Review:  August, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking:  Excellent 

Cost:  Expensive to Ouch! 
Gluten-Free Menu Options:  Good 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking:  As Relaxed As It Gets

Description:  You have an expectation of service when you seemed to be outnumbered by the wait staff, and this restaurant delivered.  Service was attentive but comfortable.  When the gluten issue was brought up during menu review, the chef came out to chat and discuss our target, the tasting menu.  While there were three diners, the gluten-free diner was apprised of the status of each dish as it came out.

The food was excellent.  The tasting menu option opened with an amuse-bouche of herbed goat cheese with pickled shallot and apricot puree.  Following this were oysters on a fruit puree, the low point of the meal as the texture of the puree leaned toward thick corn starch and one diner noticed a fishiness.  This was followed by perfectly cooked scallops with white asparagus.  The lobster was done in a nicely balanced brandy-based sauce.  The lamb with corn and fava beans was fresh and simple, a high quality main dish.  This was followed by fresh sorbet, then a wide selection of excellent cheese and more desserts than you might hope to have to choose from.  The flourless chocolate cake was rich and satisfying.  Their signature dish, a chocolate mouse torte, was also very good.  Finally, the coffee was decent and the gluten containing tiny pastries were a nice finish.  Portion sizes were generally appropriate, and could even have been smaller.

The ambiance, while our least concern, was truly sumptuous.  Beautiful crystal chandeliers gently lit a tasteful, off-white, leather-paneled dining room.  Mirrors and gold gilding added an eye-catching glitter of classical bling.

Ossawippi Express

210 Missassaga St. East
Orillia, Ontario
705-329-0001

Type of cuisine:  Bistro
Date of Visit:  Sept, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking:  It could be worse

Cost:  Moderate to Expensive 

Gluten-Free Menu Options:  Somewhat restricted 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking:  Cautiously Comfortable

Description:  We chose this restaurant for the patio, the view of the water, and the great weather.  Yes, it was a classic mistake, but this Ontario summer has left us pining for the sun.  I should point out that the inside menu was more appealing (with seemingly more GF choices) than the patio menu, which was comparatively uninteresting.

The disappointment started with the 'Zinfandel' by the glass, which turned out to be white.  They were friendly about changing this to a relatively bland cab-merlot.  The outside menu being limited, I chose the steak.  Apart from cooking the medium-rare rather too rare, this was remarkably bland.  In fact, I felt guilty about my cow meeting his/her end in such a sad manner, a feeling made worse by viewing Food Inc later that evening. The roasted and herbed potatoes were the high point, and the vegetables were fresh, if tepid.  The second member of the team had the crusted cod, which was also fairly bland.

Our server was friendly and helpful, and we complained not a word about the food, although he was likely suspicious by the quantity of food remaining.  As for ambiance, the patio did the job.  The interior, although not explored, is set in a series of railway cars.  Nice gimmick, but sorry, I won't be riding these rails again.

Lady Marmalade

898 Queen St. East
Toronto
647-351-7645

Type of cuisine:  brunch / lunch
Date of Visit:  Sept, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking:  Excellent

Cost:  Inexpensive (cash only) 
Gluten-Free Menu Options:  Okay to Good 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking:  Comfortable



Description:  If you like fresh, you'll like Lady Marmalade.  The food had barely escaped the garden, the lime green walls and white tin ceiling made great use of the light from the large front window, and the wait staff were friendly and helpful.  My better half had a slight variation on the club sandwich, which came on fresh bread with tender, roasted chicken breast.  I had the brown rice bowl 'baja style', which came with refried beans, avocado, fresh cilantro, and a bright tasting pico de gallo.  The homemade ice tea and lemonade went nicely.  While the GF options weren't endless, there was enough to keep it interesting.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Incognito

93 John St. South, Hamilton, Ontario
Tel  905-296-5832

Type of cuisine:  Bistro
Date of Visit:  August, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking:  Good to Excellent 

Cost:  Inexpensive to Moderate 
Gluten-Free Menu Options:  Good 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking:  Comfortable

Description:  We have returned to Incognito several times.  They make consistently good food and almost rank as excellent.   They have fallen short by a tendency to pile up food (rendering flavours less distinct) and sometimes a tendency to slightly heavy sauces, which we feel unnecessarily covers the taste of the underlying food.  Portions are generous, and typically larger than necessary.  However, Incognito is trying to provide value in the tough Hamilton market, and they achieve this in spades. 

For the gluten-free eater, they offer a good selection of foods.  They generally avoid flour in their sauces, although always ask about the soups.  Like most places, they will occasionally slip up.  Expect an occasional breadstick lying over your salad. 

They have a good selection of appetizers.  On this visit, I had a delicious little quail.  Their brie-stuffed portabello mushrooms are also respectable.  One of our party had the spinach salad, which was a little over-dressed for the occasion. 

All persons in the party had duck in a berry reduction with a side of well-herbed potatoes and fresh vegetables, all of which were very good.  The reduction could have been a touch lighter, but I would not hesitate to order this again. 

Happily, the gluten-free flourless chocolate cake was on the menu.  Why this ever goes off the menu is beyond me, because it is rich and fabulous.  Bravo!

As usual, service was good.  The staff care.  As for the ambience, it is pleasant and comfortable.  They have achieved a nice result on what was likely a careful budget.  The white linen is a nice touch.  Incognito also does events (and regularly hosts various functions for the nearby hospital), which could come in handy for the gluten-free event planner.

Navigating Restaurants when Gluten is the Enemy

If you are trying to completely avoid gluten, then restaurants are a minefield.  If you are trying to live a normal industrial world existence, then you will go to restaurants.  Although we are still learning, here are a few things we've found.

You are the Consumer  The key is polite insistence.   You must start by assuming the restaurant staff are uninformed.  You must be willing--as respectfully and politely as possible--to second guess and to question.  While I tend to be apologetic, it typically comes out as "I'm sorry to be a pain in the ass, but I need to ask you if any flour is added to the sauce."

Unfortunately, not even those appearing to recognize your condition are aware of all the traps.  You will also encounter staff who suggest it is okay to have ‘just a bit’.  If you are celiac, this is unfortunately untrue. Remember that this is an exchange of money for service.  You are right to be respectful, but you are also right to eat safely. 

A Touch of Zen  Fundamentally, you are trying to protect your health, and sometimes that will require that you sacrifice desire.  Not every restaurant is safe.  Yet sharing time with people you care about and seeing the world will occasionally require you to eat limited fare, which in Western countries is typically another damn salad.

Choosing Cuisine   If you are reading this, chances are that you grew up in the wrong country in terms of eating gluten-free.  But then again, it could be worse.

Among the safer cuisines for the celiac would be Indian, Thai, and Vietnamese.  These diets tend to use beans or rice as a base, generally avoiding the gluten issue.

Conversely, Chinese, Korean, and Japanese diets are more treacherous, mostly on account of soy sauce.  And while soy sauce can be safe, industrial production tends to add wheat for purposes of cost and taste.  Outside of unadorned sushi, soy sauce is ubiquitous here.  If you think your food contains no soy sauce, consider whether it might contain red miso, which often (but not always) contains barley.  Go over seas, add in a language barrier and hosts with little exposure to gluten-free clients, and you have your work cut out for you. 

In Western countries, bread, breading, and seemingly indiscriminate wheat sprinkling are a product of industrial production and consumer taste.  Thus my preferred option is the independent bistro, where the staff tend to care about their food--and know what is in it.  Short-order cooks are a hazard for the gluten-free, with the possible exception being the highly regimented corporate kitchen.  Swiss Chalet, for example, has a plausible allergen list.  You just have to want to go there.

Note that most of the above cuisines can be safely prepared at home by choosing gluten-free versions of each ingredient.

Aids to Dining  Apart from staying sharp, you may find it handy to carry cards that describe your eating requirements.  TriumphDining has a respectable version.  These are particularly useful when you are facing a language barrier, although I frequently think I should employ them more locally. 

Aglutinous Priest  While the amateur proselytizer wins few friends, you can improve your future culinary options (and those of your gluten-free breathren) in subtle ways.  I typically employ the words "celiac" and "gluten-free" so that the wait staff become accustomed to the terms.  I go out of my way to be polite and deferential.  I tip generously.  It is my hope that "gluten-free" will engender positive feelings in waitstaff.