2154 Danforth Avenue
Toronto, Ontario
416-425-4664
Type of cuisine: Tapas
Date of Review: November, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets
Description: Group dinners with shared dishes usually have 'No Celiacs' written all over them. But Relish is an exception. In fact, the dedicated celiac menu has enough variety to satisfy even most gluten loving types. This menu, which is on a completely different card from the standard tapas menu, contains all of the dishes that are gluten free. In some cases, necessary alterations are mentioned along with the item, such as "Ask for the balsamic glaze" or "Ask for rice crackers," so don't completely abandon vigilance. Nevertheless, Relish makes it easy.
Despite the potential sharing option, I chose to go it alone. Worrying about cross-contamination from serving spoons rather spoils my appetite. In short, for the several items I did not try, an experienced palate gave an overall ranking of good, with no food item garnering a 'yuck'. As for what I did try, it was quite enjoyable.
First, partaking of the drink menu, I landed a Yellow Bird. As long as you're fairly secure with yourself, let this fruity little fella take your tongue off to some tropical island. When you get back, warm up to the warm olives with jalapeno, a little variety pack of zesty goodness. The sauteed tiger shrimp was moist and tasty, and came in a crispy little shell. I gave the latter a bit of space as I was hesitant to question our busy waiter whether it had swum with any wheaty deep-fryer companions.
Moving on, I was happy not to share my grilled lamb special, particularly as the standard lamb empanada is not on the celiac menu. If you like mushrooms, the grilled portobello also makes nice company. Next, the roasted eggplant and almond butter dip was a comforting and filling topping for the rice cracker vehicle. And a nice Ninfa 2005 Portugese red kept everything moving down the sluice. Finally, to finish, can you say no to a flourless chocolate polenta cake? You do only live once.
As for price, it is possible to incur something of a bill if you are on a solo variety mission, but individual items are not over-priced. They recommend about 3 dishes per person, but I seemed fine with 5 and dessert....so maybe I have a problem. Regardless, the service was cheery and food delivery moved along nicely. The decor is comfortable and casual. Also, they accommodated our group of 12 with aplomb, but the restaurant is not large, so consider reservations.
In short, I hope to be back, but I also hope to bring a ravenous hoard of the gluten averse next round. At Relish, it seems sharing can again be fun and safe.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Thai Memory
25 King William St.
Hamilton, Ontario
(905) 296-1077
Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: November, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Thai Memory is the kind of place you want to like. It's local, its a bit quirky, and in the heart of downtown Hamilton, it has its work cut out for it. Ultimately, you will like it, if you summon a little patience.
The menu has an abundance of Thai dishes, many looking very attractive on paper but verboten for the gluten-free eater. Most of the house specialty dishes unfortunately fall into this category. Still, there is enough to eat and enough to keep your interest. The spiciness (heat) of each item is selected by the patron.
Dinner began with fresh vegetarian spring rolls, which were tasty enough. The accompanying peanut sauce was avoided because of uncertainty over the soy sauce (and thus wheat) content, and the fish sauce substitute took care of my 2009 salt needs. We also shared the Laab Gai, a spicey ground chicken that was moist and tasty (although places second to a distant competitor, Rod Dee's of Boston). One of our diners enjoyed the Tom Kha soup with chicken and galangal, which appeared to be full of fresh ingredients.
For the main course, we shared the Pad Thai, a pineapple curry shrimp, and a red chicken curry. The Pad Thai was tasty without being syrupy. It was a fair size for one person, but really only a sampler amongst three. The chicken red curry was tasty and generous, as was the pineapple curry shrimp. Both used a coconut broth.
Service was pleasant enough, but decidedly slow. One couple that came after us sat, waited for their order to be taken, waited some more, then left. We were pleased that all the tables were full on this Saturday night, but the service could not keep up. On a previous week-night visit, only three tables were occupied, and service was smooth. Our overall visit was about two hours in length, which is fine for a relaxed visit but hazardous if you want to catch the 15 advertisements preceeding your evening movie. The knowledge of the staff regarding ingredients and gluten-free dining was unclear due to time constraints, so we stuck with safer fare.
Quirky is where the decor comes in. The restuarant is chock-a-block with Thai periphernalia, some of it great for provoking conversation. Several of the tables and chairs are also eye-catching, seemingly being made of large pieces of driftwood.
In short, Thai Memory left a positive impression, but won us by virtue of being a tasty local restaurant, not by virtue of service.
Hamilton, Ontario
(905) 296-1077
Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: November, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Thai Memory is the kind of place you want to like. It's local, its a bit quirky, and in the heart of downtown Hamilton, it has its work cut out for it. Ultimately, you will like it, if you summon a little patience.
The menu has an abundance of Thai dishes, many looking very attractive on paper but verboten for the gluten-free eater. Most of the house specialty dishes unfortunately fall into this category. Still, there is enough to eat and enough to keep your interest. The spiciness (heat) of each item is selected by the patron.
Dinner began with fresh vegetarian spring rolls, which were tasty enough. The accompanying peanut sauce was avoided because of uncertainty over the soy sauce (and thus wheat) content, and the fish sauce substitute took care of my 2009 salt needs. We also shared the Laab Gai, a spicey ground chicken that was moist and tasty (although places second to a distant competitor, Rod Dee's of Boston). One of our diners enjoyed the Tom Kha soup with chicken and galangal, which appeared to be full of fresh ingredients.
For the main course, we shared the Pad Thai, a pineapple curry shrimp, and a red chicken curry. The Pad Thai was tasty without being syrupy. It was a fair size for one person, but really only a sampler amongst three. The chicken red curry was tasty and generous, as was the pineapple curry shrimp. Both used a coconut broth.
Service was pleasant enough, but decidedly slow. One couple that came after us sat, waited for their order to be taken, waited some more, then left. We were pleased that all the tables were full on this Saturday night, but the service could not keep up. On a previous week-night visit, only three tables were occupied, and service was smooth. Our overall visit was about two hours in length, which is fine for a relaxed visit but hazardous if you want to catch the 15 advertisements preceeding your evening movie. The knowledge of the staff regarding ingredients and gluten-free dining was unclear due to time constraints, so we stuck with safer fare.
Quirky is where the decor comes in. The restuarant is chock-a-block with Thai periphernalia, some of it great for provoking conversation. Several of the tables and chairs are also eye-catching, seemingly being made of large pieces of driftwood.
In short, Thai Memory left a positive impression, but won us by virtue of being a tasty local restaurant, not by virtue of service.
Le Club Chasse et Peche
423, St-Claude street
Montreal, Quebec
(514) 861-1112
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: November, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets
Description: You want to belong to this kind of Le Club. At the same time, however, you might join a gym. They are serious about food, and they don't skip the tasty lipids. The menu is moderate in length, and there is enough to entice any protein seeking diner, but this probably is not the place to bring your vegetarian friends. The staff appeared informed about gluten, and dinner was pleasantly relaxed.
For round one, we choose the smoked lamb, the scallops, and the fois gras. If you were eating completely in the dark, you might have mistaken the lamb for lox. Sitting on tender beets, subtle bits of goat cheese, and a wondrous creme fraiche, this lamb was as mild as they come. The scallops were tender and crisp in all the right places, although according to one of our diners, the oil involved in production could have floated a container ship. No complaints from the eater. The fois gras also impressed, being given an 8.5/10 from one experienced fois gourmet. It was a touch large, but had an interesting and tasty companion in a little spice cake. To wash all this down, we tried a Jean-Michel Gerin 2007 Voignier. With a straw nose and a touch of oak, it held its own.
All the main plates shone. The braised boor had spent the previous evening cooking gently, and it was as tender as it was profoundly rich. Accompanied by perfectly roasted nuts, a light cheese, and roasted figs, it demanded to be eaten in its entirety. Two of our members tackled the sizable paprika-spiced octopus, and it may have been the most tender little fellow any of us had ever set teeth upon. It came with a heavenly smoked potato puree, roasted tomato, and roasted eggplant. The halibut also won accolades. We went with a wine recommendation for the table for this culinary mix. The hazard of this is that many of us are disinclined to refuse once the bottle is opened. A Francois Ecot organic Gamay, this rosé-like number was too light and punch-like. Unfiltered, it also seemed to effervesce ever so slightly.
For dessert, two orders of the chocolate and salted caramel tart were happily demolished. Although all of the usual desserts were gluten containing, an off-the-record pavlova was procured. Marzipan played Atlas to a coconut ice cream even while swimming in a little pool of delectable creme fraiche. All this white was offset by a few bright cherries. What a save!
Service was largely good. Our waiter had the menu memorized to the point that you might have suspected an implant. His presentation was also charming. But he didn't write down our order, and he did forget both the oysters (quite an error at $24 for 6) and the shared vegetables. While far from laudable, we had enough food that we did not point out the omission. Otherwise, the flow of food was timely and well coordinated, liquid refills were automatic, and our waiter kindly did a short marathon to hail a cab.
The physical space appears as a cross between a retro basement rec-room and that fictional jazz bar on Tatooine. It is dark, cozy, and divided nicely so as to minimize noise.
Le Club makes good food. We've had the fortune to come here before, and you won't have to drag us to get us back again.
Montreal, Quebec
(514) 861-1112
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: November, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets
Description: You want to belong to this kind of Le Club. At the same time, however, you might join a gym. They are serious about food, and they don't skip the tasty lipids. The menu is moderate in length, and there is enough to entice any protein seeking diner, but this probably is not the place to bring your vegetarian friends. The staff appeared informed about gluten, and dinner was pleasantly relaxed.
For round one, we choose the smoked lamb, the scallops, and the fois gras. If you were eating completely in the dark, you might have mistaken the lamb for lox. Sitting on tender beets, subtle bits of goat cheese, and a wondrous creme fraiche, this lamb was as mild as they come. The scallops were tender and crisp in all the right places, although according to one of our diners, the oil involved in production could have floated a container ship. No complaints from the eater. The fois gras also impressed, being given an 8.5/10 from one experienced fois gourmet. It was a touch large, but had an interesting and tasty companion in a little spice cake. To wash all this down, we tried a Jean-Michel Gerin 2007 Voignier. With a straw nose and a touch of oak, it held its own.
All the main plates shone. The braised boor had spent the previous evening cooking gently, and it was as tender as it was profoundly rich. Accompanied by perfectly roasted nuts, a light cheese, and roasted figs, it demanded to be eaten in its entirety. Two of our members tackled the sizable paprika-spiced octopus, and it may have been the most tender little fellow any of us had ever set teeth upon. It came with a heavenly smoked potato puree, roasted tomato, and roasted eggplant. The halibut also won accolades. We went with a wine recommendation for the table for this culinary mix. The hazard of this is that many of us are disinclined to refuse once the bottle is opened. A Francois Ecot organic Gamay, this rosé-like number was too light and punch-like. Unfiltered, it also seemed to effervesce ever so slightly.
For dessert, two orders of the chocolate and salted caramel tart were happily demolished. Although all of the usual desserts were gluten containing, an off-the-record pavlova was procured. Marzipan played Atlas to a coconut ice cream even while swimming in a little pool of delectable creme fraiche. All this white was offset by a few bright cherries. What a save!
Service was largely good. Our waiter had the menu memorized to the point that you might have suspected an implant. His presentation was also charming. But he didn't write down our order, and he did forget both the oysters (quite an error at $24 for 6) and the shared vegetables. While far from laudable, we had enough food that we did not point out the omission. Otherwise, the flow of food was timely and well coordinated, liquid refills were automatic, and our waiter kindly did a short marathon to hail a cab.
The physical space appears as a cross between a retro basement rec-room and that fictional jazz bar on Tatooine. It is dark, cozy, and divided nicely so as to minimize noise.
Le Club makes good food. We've had the fortune to come here before, and you won't have to drag us to get us back again.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Mengrai Thai Restaurant
82 Ontario St.
Toronto, Ontario
M5A 2V3
416-840-2459
Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Anxious
Description: On this night, Mengrai messed up. Based on the positive reviews and gluten-free enticements of friends, we signed up to test run this Thai establishment. The menu itself is varied and appealing, but for the GF eater, there is something better: gluten-free item labels.
These in hand, we selected a number of items, as well as a couple of fruity alcoholic concoctions. Soon, our waitress was back to indicate that one of the items did contain a small amount of gluten, as the fish in the dish was breaded. As the gluten alert system rushed from a comforting green to an angry red, we tried to point out that gluten was not a 'gray' thing, it was black and white.
There can be NO gluten. Not. One. Bit.
Should you be relieved they pointed this out? Should you now worry about all the other labeled items on the menu? Should you be concerned that when I subsequently tried to verify the provenance of a soy sauce (most contain wheat) the waiter only replied "I told the chef that everything was gluten free." I will never know.
But let's pretend you like gluten. You win. The food is great. To start, the lemongrass coconut soup was a soothing bowl of palm fat yum. Small for four (but good for two) was the fresh and zesty mango salad with chicken satay. Our walk down the Thai street style Pad Thai was a tasty excursion. I savoured the Thai basil eggplant, which offered a subtle blend of flavours with perfect texture. The elegant Penang curry with chicken was rich and spicy alone and as a rice bath. Not bad but less interesting was the Chinese broccoli and mushroom. For dessert, the ice cream was proclaimed interesting while the flourless chocolate cupcake was solid enough though not best in show.
Unlike the food, service was poor. While alcohol usually comes early as part of good business practice, our drinks became distinctly lonely. Similarly, the green tea with dessert came as we were essentially standing to leave; this, after politely asking for it twice. The communication uncertainty was described above. The bill was nearly unpayable for reason of delay, which is only good if you can actually leave without paying.
The ambiance is fresh and entertaining. The restaurant is arranged as a side split in what seemed to be a converted warehouse. Old metal doors along the wall keep you guessing about the building's past. The decor is interesting, with various Thai art and icons hanging about.
I suppose the summary is disappointment. Gluten-free labels are great. You just have to trust them and the people who report them.
Toronto, Ontario
M5A 2V3
416-840-2459
Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Anxious
Description: On this night, Mengrai messed up. Based on the positive reviews and gluten-free enticements of friends, we signed up to test run this Thai establishment. The menu itself is varied and appealing, but for the GF eater, there is something better: gluten-free item labels.
These in hand, we selected a number of items, as well as a couple of fruity alcoholic concoctions. Soon, our waitress was back to indicate that one of the items did contain a small amount of gluten, as the fish in the dish was breaded. As the gluten alert system rushed from a comforting green to an angry red, we tried to point out that gluten was not a 'gray' thing, it was black and white.
There can be NO gluten. Not. One. Bit.
Should you be relieved they pointed this out? Should you now worry about all the other labeled items on the menu? Should you be concerned that when I subsequently tried to verify the provenance of a soy sauce (most contain wheat) the waiter only replied "I told the chef that everything was gluten free." I will never know.
But let's pretend you like gluten. You win. The food is great. To start, the lemongrass coconut soup was a soothing bowl of palm fat yum. Small for four (but good for two) was the fresh and zesty mango salad with chicken satay. Our walk down the Thai street style Pad Thai was a tasty excursion. I savoured the Thai basil eggplant, which offered a subtle blend of flavours with perfect texture. The elegant Penang curry with chicken was rich and spicy alone and as a rice bath. Not bad but less interesting was the Chinese broccoli and mushroom. For dessert, the ice cream was proclaimed interesting while the flourless chocolate cupcake was solid enough though not best in show.
Unlike the food, service was poor. While alcohol usually comes early as part of good business practice, our drinks became distinctly lonely. Similarly, the green tea with dessert came as we were essentially standing to leave; this, after politely asking for it twice. The communication uncertainty was described above. The bill was nearly unpayable for reason of delay, which is only good if you can actually leave without paying.
The ambiance is fresh and entertaining. The restaurant is arranged as a side split in what seemed to be a converted warehouse. Old metal doors along the wall keep you guessing about the building's past. The decor is interesting, with various Thai art and icons hanging about.
I suppose the summary is disappointment. Gluten-free labels are great. You just have to trust them and the people who report them.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
George Restaurant
111c Queen St. East
Toronto, Ontario M5C 1S2
416-368-6006
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: George is a very good restaurant, one that makes you conscious of your own good fortune.
The menu is divided into courses. To look at the prices, you might assume they were all principal plates. But the portions are moderate, and the firsts and seconds are meant to be part of the trip toward the main third. Cheese and dessert round out the plan. Based on the prices of individual items, the 5, 7, and 10 course tasting menus don't seem overly dear. With the exception of dessert, the menu options are fairly open for the gluten-free eater.
To start, the amuse bouche of smoked trout and a little stuffed pepper was a lox-like delight. While the Wagyu beef was declared excellent, the soy sauce addition (containing wheat) left the GF diner happily diverted to an octopus salad with greens and a lively little fruit compote. They must have caught the slow and soft octopus, because this little feller was fork tender. Another diner 'firsted' on the lobster roll with lentils, fig, endive, and brussel sprouts. The happy groans were embarrassing. For a second, the braised shortrib was juicy, nicely compact, and utterly tender. The Togarashi scallops also performed well.
For the main, three of the party chose the Nunavut Turbot, an ironclad case for arctic sovereignty if ever there was one. The rebellious fourth member made out with the bison ribeye, and she didn't look back.
With our Lipitor on standby, we shared a very fine Canadian cheese plate. Canada may be working on a trade deal with the European Union, but we shouldn't be doing it for cheese access. Our domestic goods are top notch.
It is unusual to encounter a restaurant where there is absolutely no available gluten-free dessert choice. But none of the four items, all of which sounded good on paper, made the cut. This is a bit of a disappointment for an otherwise fine meal.
Service was friendly and crisp. The wait staff were tolerant of polite verifications on the gluten status of food items. Dishes were announced as being gluten free as they were delivered. Water was refreshed and delivery and clearance of food items were often coordinated between pairs of waiters. The setting is comfortable, if a bit noisy when all the tables were full. The ironwork gave the otherwise open space the feeling of a somewhat dated Portuguese establishment, but the feeling was warm.
George makes great food. The faults to be found are minor, and, fate willing, we will return.
Toronto, Ontario M5C 1S2
416-368-6006
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: George is a very good restaurant, one that makes you conscious of your own good fortune.
The menu is divided into courses. To look at the prices, you might assume they were all principal plates. But the portions are moderate, and the firsts and seconds are meant to be part of the trip toward the main third. Cheese and dessert round out the plan. Based on the prices of individual items, the 5, 7, and 10 course tasting menus don't seem overly dear. With the exception of dessert, the menu options are fairly open for the gluten-free eater.
Braised shortrib. Don't leave George without it.
For the main, three of the party chose the Nunavut Turbot, an ironclad case for arctic sovereignty if ever there was one. The rebellious fourth member made out with the bison ribeye, and she didn't look back.
Nunavut Turbot. Fish can follow meat when it's this good.
With our Lipitor on standby, we shared a very fine Canadian cheese plate. Canada may be working on a trade deal with the European Union, but we shouldn't be doing it for cheese access. Our domestic goods are top notch.
It is unusual to encounter a restaurant where there is absolutely no available gluten-free dessert choice. But none of the four items, all of which sounded good on paper, made the cut. This is a bit of a disappointment for an otherwise fine meal.
Service was friendly and crisp. The wait staff were tolerant of polite verifications on the gluten status of food items. Dishes were announced as being gluten free as they were delivered. Water was refreshed and delivery and clearance of food items were often coordinated between pairs of waiters. The setting is comfortable, if a bit noisy when all the tables were full. The ironwork gave the otherwise open space the feeling of a somewhat dated Portuguese establishment, but the feeling was warm.
George makes great food. The faults to be found are minor, and, fate willing, we will return.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Pure Spirits Oyster House and Grill
55 Mill Street
Toronto, Ontario
416-361-5859
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable to Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Toronto's Distillery District has a touristy charm that typically serves as a red flag for good food. Comprised of several old red brick warehouses now housing various shops and eating establishments, it is an enjoyable place to linger for a few hours. Just don't trip over the cobblestone or all the bridal parties coming for photo shoots.
I am pleased to write that Pure Spirits Oyster House broke ranks with over-priced tourist kibble. The menu is comprised of seafood and some meat options, and was straightforward enough that several GF options were present.
To open, the table shared fresh oysters. I am not an oyster aficionado, but these had a lovely texture, were not the faintest bit fishy, and conveyed a gentle zing with their little tufts of freshly grated horseradish. As an appetizer, I had the seared Digby scallops, which were perfectly done and sat on a fresh corn bed nicely blended with herbs. My table mates shared a fresh salad. The seared great lakes whitefish served as a delightful main. The sweet balsamic and fresh tomato accompaniment did not overwhelm the fish. Another diner had the bouillabaisse, which was reported to be very good. Two others at our table raved about the Dungeness crab "mac n cheese". To drink, we shared a Lillypilly 2008 sauvignan blanc, a lovely Australian ambassador.
The service was amiable, and although the waiter did not appear celiac savvy, he engaged the issue. Water refills were given without request, and wine was similarly poured. The restaurant felt large yet warm and comfortable. Your eyes tend to wander over the magnificent old beams and the old photographs. Note that the windows are single pane, and sitting near them might be a bit chilly in the winter.
Can we distill this down? Pure Spirits does great seafood, and does it mid-continent in a potential tourist trap.
Toronto, Ontario
416-361-5859
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable to Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Toronto's Distillery District has a touristy charm that typically serves as a red flag for good food. Comprised of several old red brick warehouses now housing various shops and eating establishments, it is an enjoyable place to linger for a few hours. Just don't trip over the cobblestone or all the bridal parties coming for photo shoots.
I am pleased to write that Pure Spirits Oyster House broke ranks with over-priced tourist kibble. The menu is comprised of seafood and some meat options, and was straightforward enough that several GF options were present.
To open, the table shared fresh oysters. I am not an oyster aficionado, but these had a lovely texture, were not the faintest bit fishy, and conveyed a gentle zing with their little tufts of freshly grated horseradish. As an appetizer, I had the seared Digby scallops, which were perfectly done and sat on a fresh corn bed nicely blended with herbs. My table mates shared a fresh salad. The seared great lakes whitefish served as a delightful main. The sweet balsamic and fresh tomato accompaniment did not overwhelm the fish. Another diner had the bouillabaisse, which was reported to be very good. Two others at our table raved about the Dungeness crab "mac n cheese". To drink, we shared a Lillypilly 2008 sauvignan blanc, a lovely Australian ambassador.
The service was amiable, and although the waiter did not appear celiac savvy, he engaged the issue. Water refills were given without request, and wine was similarly poured. The restaurant felt large yet warm and comfortable. Your eyes tend to wander over the magnificent old beams and the old photographs. Note that the windows are single pane, and sitting near them might be a bit chilly in the winter.
Can we distill this down? Pure Spirits does great seafood, and does it mid-continent in a potential tourist trap.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Mikado Japanese Restaurant
415 Elizabeth Street,
Burlington, Ontario
(905) 333-4718
Type of cuisine: Japanese / Korean
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Very restricted
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Sushi is an attractive gluten-free cuisine, but it does have its limits. Soy sauce, except for the rare restaurant using the more expensive wheat-free tamari, is out. So is tempura, fake crab (found in rolls), tempura bits (tucked into some rolls), teriyaki anything, some miso, and most marinades. Therefore, you count on the very basics to be available: rice, sushi, and a couple of rolls. When a restaurant has trouble with these, it is a little frustrating. And when one of the owners sits at your table repeatedly and points to the quality of her food, yet seems oddly uninformed about her actual ingredients, you are left a little uncertain. This restaurant only ranks as cautiously comfortable for celiacs because I ate almost nothing that was not comprised of a single ingredient.
The good? To start, the edamame was fine. The tempura was reported as being light and good. The fish was fresh enough, if a little cold. The actual fish selection was quite restricted, however, even for the large shared Love Boat. It is certainly better to have fresh than a variety of not fresh fish, but there is a point at which your interest will wane.
The not so good? After boasting about her home made fruit dressing for the salad, our owner/host could not seem to list a single ingredient and ultimately advised a completely plain salad. When I went to order the sushi and sashimi plate, which included one roll, I was talked down to the sashimi plate. Again, our host was either uninformed or uninterested when it came to the nature of the vinegar in the sushi rice. (Rarely, a wheat containing version of mirin may be employed.) She thus quickly recommended steamed rice. Frankly, once you have lost faith in the restaurant staff, the only comfortable thing to do is play it completely safe.
Dessert was the typical green tea ice cream, although we were pointedly told this was class 'A' ice cream, and not the lesser B or C. Similarly, it was made clear that all the teas were a very high quality.
This leads us to service. All in the party agreed the owners were too friendly. I enjoy an engaging waiter, proprietor, or chef, but repeated claims on the fine quality of the food (which I shall judge myself, thank you), the mojo-enhancing properties of the tea (amusing once, but not thrice), and another less than savory story I shall spare the reader--well, all this goes quite beyond the pale.
In sum, you might try this restaurant if you are not gluten restricted. But you might be advised to fill all the seats at your table.
Burlington, Ontario
(905) 333-4718
Type of cuisine: Japanese / Korean
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Very restricted
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Sushi is an attractive gluten-free cuisine, but it does have its limits. Soy sauce, except for the rare restaurant using the more expensive wheat-free tamari, is out. So is tempura, fake crab (found in rolls), tempura bits (tucked into some rolls), teriyaki anything, some miso, and most marinades. Therefore, you count on the very basics to be available: rice, sushi, and a couple of rolls. When a restaurant has trouble with these, it is a little frustrating. And when one of the owners sits at your table repeatedly and points to the quality of her food, yet seems oddly uninformed about her actual ingredients, you are left a little uncertain. This restaurant only ranks as cautiously comfortable for celiacs because I ate almost nothing that was not comprised of a single ingredient.
The good? To start, the edamame was fine. The tempura was reported as being light and good. The fish was fresh enough, if a little cold. The actual fish selection was quite restricted, however, even for the large shared Love Boat. It is certainly better to have fresh than a variety of not fresh fish, but there is a point at which your interest will wane.
The not so good? After boasting about her home made fruit dressing for the salad, our owner/host could not seem to list a single ingredient and ultimately advised a completely plain salad. When I went to order the sushi and sashimi plate, which included one roll, I was talked down to the sashimi plate. Again, our host was either uninformed or uninterested when it came to the nature of the vinegar in the sushi rice. (Rarely, a wheat containing version of mirin may be employed.) She thus quickly recommended steamed rice. Frankly, once you have lost faith in the restaurant staff, the only comfortable thing to do is play it completely safe.
Dessert was the typical green tea ice cream, although we were pointedly told this was class 'A' ice cream, and not the lesser B or C. Similarly, it was made clear that all the teas were a very high quality.
This leads us to service. All in the party agreed the owners were too friendly. I enjoy an engaging waiter, proprietor, or chef, but repeated claims on the fine quality of the food (which I shall judge myself, thank you), the mojo-enhancing properties of the tea (amusing once, but not thrice), and another less than savory story I shall spare the reader--well, all this goes quite beyond the pale.
In sum, you might try this restaurant if you are not gluten restricted. But you might be advised to fill all the seats at your table.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Red Canoe
398 John St
Burlington, Ontario
905-637-6137
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable.
Description: It is always with trepidation that I dine at a newly opened restaurant. There is, of course, the uncertainty about dining safety. But more than that, there is an anxiety felt on behalf of the chef / owner. Starting a business is a bold act; in the case of a chef, you not only risk your wallet, you expose your craft.
And so it was with relief and joy that the meal unfolded. Having mentioned the celiac issue, chef Tobias Pohl-Weary graciously agreed to review the menu, which is both ambitious and diverse. It includes an optional five-course tasting menu at a very reasonable $62, but on that night it contained three gluten containing courses. The intrepid chef Tobias offered to render it gluten-free, but I'm a low-key advocate, not a sadist. The menu does read as a bit expensive, with some appetizers exceeding $15 and some main dishes in the $30's. But the ingredients used are also expensive, ranging from bison and ostrich to escargot and lobster.
As we waited, the gluten lovers enjoyed some good bread (made off site) with hummus. Appetizers included bison tartare, which was rich and peppery, and not overly gamey. We could not quite dissect the marinade, but it added a nice depth. The comforting escargot swam in a cumin type broth. In this instance, instead of riding on a crust of baguette, it saddled up on some crisp papadum. This GF alternative was appreciated. Finally, according to our Ukrainian-bred diner, the lobster perogies would have made baba proud.
For the main course, two of us engaged the goose cassoulet. This dish might be considered a bistro test (as well as a test of your kidneys). Red Canoe kept the theme of fowl and sausage on beans, but made it a touch lighter, likely the result of less fat in the beans and the light berry compote. A conservative size, this dish delighted and satisfied without leaving heavy regrets. The dark ale short ribs got raves, and its accompanying mashed potatoes reportedly qualified as an extra dessert. Finally, the perch wrapped in a very smokey salmon was well appreciated.
Dessert options were reasonable. Two of us had the "cookies and milk", an ice cream float in hot Mexican style chocolate with little cookies on the side. It was rich enough to marry and the cookies were reportedly divine. "Kelly's pears" upside down cake--usually a product of one of the wait staff's trees--was this night an inverted plum cake. It scored well.
Service was good, with attention to liquid refills. It was not fast, but this suited our relaxed evening. The decor is comfortable and warm, but not unnecessarily upscale. Tasting menu items were displayed on a quaint chalk board hung over the bench seating.
Red Canoe is billed as modern Canadian cuisine, and although Canada's diversity renders such a definition elusive, I would be content if chef Tobias's rich and fresh offerings comprised part of the story. The longer term challenge may be in balancing the solid bistro backbone with the edge of innovation. So far, so good.
Burlington, Ontario
905-637-6137
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable.
Description: It is always with trepidation that I dine at a newly opened restaurant. There is, of course, the uncertainty about dining safety. But more than that, there is an anxiety felt on behalf of the chef / owner. Starting a business is a bold act; in the case of a chef, you not only risk your wallet, you expose your craft.
And so it was with relief and joy that the meal unfolded. Having mentioned the celiac issue, chef Tobias Pohl-Weary graciously agreed to review the menu, which is both ambitious and diverse. It includes an optional five-course tasting menu at a very reasonable $62, but on that night it contained three gluten containing courses. The intrepid chef Tobias offered to render it gluten-free, but I'm a low-key advocate, not a sadist. The menu does read as a bit expensive, with some appetizers exceeding $15 and some main dishes in the $30's. But the ingredients used are also expensive, ranging from bison and ostrich to escargot and lobster.
As we waited, the gluten lovers enjoyed some good bread (made off site) with hummus. Appetizers included bison tartare, which was rich and peppery, and not overly gamey. We could not quite dissect the marinade, but it added a nice depth. The comforting escargot swam in a cumin type broth. In this instance, instead of riding on a crust of baguette, it saddled up on some crisp papadum. This GF alternative was appreciated. Finally, according to our Ukrainian-bred diner, the lobster perogies would have made baba proud.
For the main course, two of us engaged the goose cassoulet. This dish might be considered a bistro test (as well as a test of your kidneys). Red Canoe kept the theme of fowl and sausage on beans, but made it a touch lighter, likely the result of less fat in the beans and the light berry compote. A conservative size, this dish delighted and satisfied without leaving heavy regrets. The dark ale short ribs got raves, and its accompanying mashed potatoes reportedly qualified as an extra dessert. Finally, the perch wrapped in a very smokey salmon was well appreciated.
Dessert options were reasonable. Two of us had the "cookies and milk", an ice cream float in hot Mexican style chocolate with little cookies on the side. It was rich enough to marry and the cookies were reportedly divine. "Kelly's pears" upside down cake--usually a product of one of the wait staff's trees--was this night an inverted plum cake. It scored well.
Service was good, with attention to liquid refills. It was not fast, but this suited our relaxed evening. The decor is comfortable and warm, but not unnecessarily upscale. Tasting menu items were displayed on a quaint chalk board hung over the bench seating.
Red Canoe is billed as modern Canadian cuisine, and although Canada's diversity renders such a definition elusive, I would be content if chef Tobias's rich and fresh offerings comprised part of the story. The longer term challenge may be in balancing the solid bistro backbone with the edge of innovation. So far, so good.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Nota Bene
180 Queen St. West
Toronto, Ontario
416-977-6400
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: September, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets.
Description: This high quality restaurant manages to scream hip while also giving your mouth something to look foward to.
To begin, I could happily have eaten any of the appetizers, and I have retained the notion of eating ALL them at a go for some future gluten-possible life. While having to avoid the deep-fried items (due to cross-contamination risk from breaded items) and a couple of soy sauce (and thus wheat containing) items, the selection for the gluten-free eater was respectable. And when the waiter rapidly identified the celiac issue from our reservation AND rhymed off these often unidentified risks, my gluten-risk radar went nearly blank across the horizon.
As I received the Nova Scotia lobster salad, the waitress added "with no croutons" and I melted further into my gluten-free happy place. It was indeed very good, with bits of bacon and a nice light buttermilk dressing. Others at the table enjoyed the cripsy duck--which might have been a touch piquant--and the deep-fried parmesan zucchini flowers. For the main, I had a simple dorade on chanterelles with a side of asparagus. The rest of the team split up amongst the brisket burger, the scallops, and the pickerel. All were pleased.
For dessert, research demanded a sampling of the flourless chocolate cake and the Quebec yogourt panna cotta. The first was rich and warm, and should satisfy anyone's chocolate craving. The latter was light and airy, a breeze of freshness rounded out with little blueberries. Although nominally a compote, these little berries seemed rather more firm and independent, if still welcome.
I should point out that all of our dishes could have been smaller; let's pass on the type 2 diabetes, shall we? Yes, I could have passed on dessert, but really now.
The service was warm, crisp, and informed. The sommelier paid us a visit, which was kind even if it wasn't necessary. But a little attention might be appreciated in a restaurant as large as this. The ambience is upscale modern chic, with linen on the tables, clean abstracts on the wall, and square columns of light that add interest while only minimally overstating their cool.
All-in-all, Nota Bene deserves kudos for making great fare and for making the gluten-free eater feel at ease.
Toronto, Ontario
416-977-6400
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: September, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets.
Description: This high quality restaurant manages to scream hip while also giving your mouth something to look foward to.
To begin, I could happily have eaten any of the appetizers, and I have retained the notion of eating ALL them at a go for some future gluten-possible life. While having to avoid the deep-fried items (due to cross-contamination risk from breaded items) and a couple of soy sauce (and thus wheat containing) items, the selection for the gluten-free eater was respectable. And when the waiter rapidly identified the celiac issue from our reservation AND rhymed off these often unidentified risks, my gluten-risk radar went nearly blank across the horizon.
As I received the Nova Scotia lobster salad, the waitress added "with no croutons" and I melted further into my gluten-free happy place. It was indeed very good, with bits of bacon and a nice light buttermilk dressing. Others at the table enjoyed the cripsy duck--which might have been a touch piquant--and the deep-fried parmesan zucchini flowers. For the main, I had a simple dorade on chanterelles with a side of asparagus. The rest of the team split up amongst the brisket burger, the scallops, and the pickerel. All were pleased.
For dessert, research demanded a sampling of the flourless chocolate cake and the Quebec yogourt panna cotta. The first was rich and warm, and should satisfy anyone's chocolate craving. The latter was light and airy, a breeze of freshness rounded out with little blueberries. Although nominally a compote, these little berries seemed rather more firm and independent, if still welcome.
I should point out that all of our dishes could have been smaller; let's pass on the type 2 diabetes, shall we? Yes, I could have passed on dessert, but really now.
The service was warm, crisp, and informed. The sommelier paid us a visit, which was kind even if it wasn't necessary. But a little attention might be appreciated in a restaurant as large as this. The ambience is upscale modern chic, with linen on the tables, clean abstracts on the wall, and square columns of light that add interest while only minimally overstating their cool.
All-in-all, Nota Bene deserves kudos for making great fare and for making the gluten-free eater feel at ease.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Thai Cuisine Experts
2011 Plains Road East, Unit 2
Burlington ON,
905-639-7700
Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: September, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: The intended theme here is fresh and authentic. We can vouch for fresh, at least as far as the vegetables are concerned. As for authentic, although we've not made it to Thailand, we would venture that curry sauces should not need to contain soya sauce.
Finally, I note on their web site that no pork is served and all meat is Halal, which might be handy for some.
Burlington ON,
905-639-7700
Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: September, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: The intended theme here is fresh and authentic. We can vouch for fresh, at least as far as the vegetables are concerned. As for authentic, although we've not made it to Thailand, we would venture that curry sauces should not need to contain soya sauce.
On this occasion, we began with the fresh shrimp rolls, which really are fresh and full of vegetables. The peanut dipping sauce contains soya sauce, so the GF eater can opt for the far too salty fish sauce. Previously, we have had the mango and papaya salad, which was fresh and spicy hot. For the main, we shared the basil chicken in a spicy sauce and the shrimp with peanuts. Apart from the basil, these sauces appeared to be the same, although they were good. The only vegetables included were peppers and onions, and the dishes might have been a little oilier than previous. We had considered other options, such as a curry or a sweet and sour sauce, but these were wheat containing.
Service is fast enough, although they may be getting busier with take-out. They seemed a little harried, but the chef, Celine Sharma, is always very friendly and enthusiastic. The restaurant itself is diner casual, with pictures of menu items and scenes of Thailand on the walls.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Seven Windows
432 Aberdeen Avenue
Hamilton, Ontario
905-523-7707
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: August, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets
Description: We have been here on previous occasions, but you might consider this visit, a wedding, a particular test. I personally don't have the skills to serve dozens simultaneously, but anybody can couch quarterback. How did the professionals fare?
Seven Windows has prepared good, fresh, food at our previous visits. Their menu has plenty of variety for the gluten-free diner, although on this occasion the menu was fixed.
To start the evening, there were several hors d'oeuvres. I can comment on a nice skewered grilled chicken and a satisfying hot mussel in a cheese and herb broth. Dinner began with vichyssoise, rich in olive oil and bright with chives. Another diner thought it heavy on the salt, but I did not. The second course was mesclun greens with goat's cheese wrapped in leeks, accompanied by glazed figs. It was piquant with garlic and it was fabulous.
Next was lobster ravioli, a food format that typically puts the "Gosh darn!" into gluten-free. But our chefs came through, producing a gentle mountain of lobster on a light buttery broth. Out-lobstering my table-mates, I did not feel the poor cousin. It would be a bit ungracious to point out that the lobster seemed a touch dry, but we are critiquing, after all.
Beef Wellington with a bearnaise sauce anybody? Not if you are gluten-free! Again, while serving a large crowd, the chefs came up with a simple but satisfying dish of beef and vegetables. My grateful meter was now pushing well into the red.
Dessert? A pavlova, a gluten-free meringue with berries. It was good enough to have two.... ...I would imagine.
As for service, it was warm but we concluded that they were short of servers. Wine was rarely offered, and water was almost off the menu. The courses moved along quite slowly, with some patrons missing out on dessert as a result. There was no rush, of course, and each course was very well prepared and still hot, but ideally it would have been stepped up a bit.
Seven Windows is visibly upscale, with rich wood and linen giving it a comfortable feel. The light is good, as there are really more than seven windows. If you want a darker setting, consider asking for a seat in the old vault, which invokes great Hamilton mafia images. Unfortunately, on this hot summer night, the air conditioning was outmatched by the heat of the kitchen and the guests. It was bye-bye vest and tie before long. On other occasions, the climate control has not been an issue.
All-in-all, Seven Windows is a commendable bistro. The value ranking takes a hit on price, however, which is high for the Hamilton market and no deal from a Toronto perspective either. While I am the first to cheer on a Hamilton restaurant, I wonder whether it is sustainable at these prices. With their attention to the gluten-free eater, I am hoping they stick around.
Hamilton, Ontario
905-523-7707
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: August, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets
Description: We have been here on previous occasions, but you might consider this visit, a wedding, a particular test. I personally don't have the skills to serve dozens simultaneously, but anybody can couch quarterback. How did the professionals fare?
Seven Windows has prepared good, fresh, food at our previous visits. Their menu has plenty of variety for the gluten-free diner, although on this occasion the menu was fixed.
To start the evening, there were several hors d'oeuvres. I can comment on a nice skewered grilled chicken and a satisfying hot mussel in a cheese and herb broth. Dinner began with vichyssoise, rich in olive oil and bright with chives. Another diner thought it heavy on the salt, but I did not. The second course was mesclun greens with goat's cheese wrapped in leeks, accompanied by glazed figs. It was piquant with garlic and it was fabulous.
Next was lobster ravioli, a food format that typically puts the "Gosh darn!" into gluten-free. But our chefs came through, producing a gentle mountain of lobster on a light buttery broth. Out-lobstering my table-mates, I did not feel the poor cousin. It would be a bit ungracious to point out that the lobster seemed a touch dry, but we are critiquing, after all.
Beef Wellington with a bearnaise sauce anybody? Not if you are gluten-free! Again, while serving a large crowd, the chefs came up with a simple but satisfying dish of beef and vegetables. My grateful meter was now pushing well into the red.
Dessert? A pavlova, a gluten-free meringue with berries. It was good enough to have two.... ...I would imagine.
As for service, it was warm but we concluded that they were short of servers. Wine was rarely offered, and water was almost off the menu. The courses moved along quite slowly, with some patrons missing out on dessert as a result. There was no rush, of course, and each course was very well prepared and still hot, but ideally it would have been stepped up a bit.
Seven Windows is visibly upscale, with rich wood and linen giving it a comfortable feel. The light is good, as there are really more than seven windows. If you want a darker setting, consider asking for a seat in the old vault, which invokes great Hamilton mafia images. Unfortunately, on this hot summer night, the air conditioning was outmatched by the heat of the kitchen and the guests. It was bye-bye vest and tie before long. On other occasions, the climate control has not been an issue.
All-in-all, Seven Windows is a commendable bistro. The value ranking takes a hit on price, however, which is high for the Hamilton market and no deal from a Toronto perspective either. While I am the first to cheer on a Hamilton restaurant, I wonder whether it is sustainable at these prices. With their attention to the gluten-free eater, I am hoping they stick around.
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Marathon Grill
Philadelphia, with various locations.
Type of cuisine: A brunch visit.
Date of Review: August, 2009, and some 2 years prior.
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: Generous portions of fresh food are amiably served in a casual atmosphere. The GF visitor had a very good omelette, and the home fries were safe and redolent of rosemary (if a bit—forgiveably--oily). The non-GF visitor had a very good breakfast quesadilla. The Marathon Grill also serves dinner.
Type of cuisine: A brunch visit.
Date of Review: August, 2009, and some 2 years prior.
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Inexpensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: Generous portions of fresh food are amiably served in a casual atmosphere. The GF visitor had a very good omelette, and the home fries were safe and redolent of rosemary (if a bit—forgiveably--oily). The non-GF visitor had a very good breakfast quesadilla. The Marathon Grill also serves dinner.
Le Bec-Fin
1523 Walnut St., Philadelphia, PA
25-567-1000
Type of cuisine: French Bistro
Date of Review: August, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive to Ouch!
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets
Description: You have an expectation of service when you seemed to be outnumbered by the wait staff, and this restaurant delivered. Service was attentive but comfortable. When the gluten issue was brought up during menu review, the chef came out to chat and discuss our target, the tasting menu. While there were three diners, the gluten-free diner was apprised of the status of each dish as it came out.
The food was excellent. The tasting menu option opened with an amuse-bouche of herbed goat cheese with pickled shallot and apricot puree. Following this were oysters on a fruit puree, the low point of the meal as the texture of the puree leaned toward thick corn starch and one diner noticed a fishiness. This was followed by perfectly cooked scallops with white asparagus. The lobster was done in a nicely balanced brandy-based sauce. The lamb with corn and fava beans was fresh and simple, a high quality main dish. This was followed by fresh sorbet, then a wide selection of excellent cheese and more desserts than you might hope to have to choose from. The flourless chocolate cake was rich and satisfying. Their signature dish, a chocolate mouse torte, was also very good. Finally, the coffee was decent and the gluten containing tiny pastries were a nice finish. Portion sizes were generally appropriate, and could even have been smaller.
The ambiance, while our least concern, was truly sumptuous. Beautiful crystal chandeliers gently lit a tasteful, off-white, leather-paneled dining room. Mirrors and gold gilding added an eye-catching glitter of classical bling.
25-567-1000
Type of cuisine: French Bistro
Date of Review: August, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive to Ouch!
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets
Description: You have an expectation of service when you seemed to be outnumbered by the wait staff, and this restaurant delivered. Service was attentive but comfortable. When the gluten issue was brought up during menu review, the chef came out to chat and discuss our target, the tasting menu. While there were three diners, the gluten-free diner was apprised of the status of each dish as it came out.
The food was excellent. The tasting menu option opened with an amuse-bouche of herbed goat cheese with pickled shallot and apricot puree. Following this were oysters on a fruit puree, the low point of the meal as the texture of the puree leaned toward thick corn starch and one diner noticed a fishiness. This was followed by perfectly cooked scallops with white asparagus. The lobster was done in a nicely balanced brandy-based sauce. The lamb with corn and fava beans was fresh and simple, a high quality main dish. This was followed by fresh sorbet, then a wide selection of excellent cheese and more desserts than you might hope to have to choose from. The flourless chocolate cake was rich and satisfying. Their signature dish, a chocolate mouse torte, was also very good. Finally, the coffee was decent and the gluten containing tiny pastries were a nice finish. Portion sizes were generally appropriate, and could even have been smaller.
The ambiance, while our least concern, was truly sumptuous. Beautiful crystal chandeliers gently lit a tasteful, off-white, leather-paneled dining room. Mirrors and gold gilding added an eye-catching glitter of classical bling.
Ossawippi Express
210 Missassaga St. East
Orillia, Ontario
705-329-0001
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Visit: Sept, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: It could be worse
Cost: Moderate to Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Somewhat restricted
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: We chose this restaurant for the patio, the view of the water, and the great weather. Yes, it was a classic mistake, but this Ontario summer has left us pining for the sun. I should point out that the inside menu was more appealing (with seemingly more GF choices) than the patio menu, which was comparatively uninteresting.
The disappointment started with the 'Zinfandel' by the glass, which turned out to be white. They were friendly about changing this to a relatively bland cab-merlot. The outside menu being limited, I chose the steak. Apart from cooking the medium-rare rather too rare, this was remarkably bland. In fact, I felt guilty about my cow meeting his/her end in such a sad manner, a feeling made worse by viewing Food Inc later that evening. The roasted and herbed potatoes were the high point, and the vegetables were fresh, if tepid. The second member of the team had the crusted cod, which was also fairly bland.
Our server was friendly and helpful, and we complained not a word about the food, although he was likely suspicious by the quantity of food remaining. As for ambiance, the patio did the job. The interior, although not explored, is set in a series of railway cars. Nice gimmick, but sorry, I won't be riding these rails again.
Orillia, Ontario
705-329-0001
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Visit: Sept, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: It could be worse
Cost: Moderate to Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Somewhat restricted
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: We chose this restaurant for the patio, the view of the water, and the great weather. Yes, it was a classic mistake, but this Ontario summer has left us pining for the sun. I should point out that the inside menu was more appealing (with seemingly more GF choices) than the patio menu, which was comparatively uninteresting.
The disappointment started with the 'Zinfandel' by the glass, which turned out to be white. They were friendly about changing this to a relatively bland cab-merlot. The outside menu being limited, I chose the steak. Apart from cooking the medium-rare rather too rare, this was remarkably bland. In fact, I felt guilty about my cow meeting his/her end in such a sad manner, a feeling made worse by viewing Food Inc later that evening. The roasted and herbed potatoes were the high point, and the vegetables were fresh, if tepid. The second member of the team had the crusted cod, which was also fairly bland.
Our server was friendly and helpful, and we complained not a word about the food, although he was likely suspicious by the quantity of food remaining. As for ambiance, the patio did the job. The interior, although not explored, is set in a series of railway cars. Nice gimmick, but sorry, I won't be riding these rails again.
Lady Marmalade
898 Queen St. East
Toronto
647-351-7645
Type of cuisine: brunch / lunch
Date of Visit: Sept, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Inexpensive (cash only)
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Okay to Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: If you like fresh, you'll like Lady Marmalade. The food had barely escaped the garden, the lime green walls and white tin ceiling made great use of the light from the large front window, and the wait staff were friendly and helpful. My better half had a slight variation on the club sandwich, which came on fresh bread with tender, roasted chicken breast. I had the brown rice bowl 'baja style', which came with refried beans, avocado, fresh cilantro, and a bright tasting pico de gallo. The homemade ice tea and lemonade went nicely. While the GF options weren't endless, there was enough to keep it interesting.
Toronto
647-351-7645
Type of cuisine: brunch / lunch
Date of Visit: Sept, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Inexpensive (cash only)
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Okay to Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: If you like fresh, you'll like Lady Marmalade. The food had barely escaped the garden, the lime green walls and white tin ceiling made great use of the light from the large front window, and the wait staff were friendly and helpful. My better half had a slight variation on the club sandwich, which came on fresh bread with tender, roasted chicken breast. I had the brown rice bowl 'baja style', which came with refried beans, avocado, fresh cilantro, and a bright tasting pico de gallo. The homemade ice tea and lemonade went nicely. While the GF options weren't endless, there was enough to keep it interesting.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Incognito
93 John St. South, Hamilton, Ontario
Tel 905-296-5832
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Visit: August, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good to Excellent
Cost: Inexpensive to Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: We have returned to Incognito several times. They make consistently good food and almost rank as excellent. They have fallen short by a tendency to pile up food (rendering flavours less distinct) and sometimes a tendency to slightly heavy sauces, which we feel unnecessarily covers the taste of the underlying food. Portions are generous, and typically larger than necessary. However, Incognito is trying to provide value in the tough Hamilton market, and they achieve this in spades.
For the gluten-free eater, they offer a good selection of foods. They generally avoid flour in their sauces, although always ask about the soups. Like most places, they will occasionally slip up. Expect an occasional breadstick lying over your salad.
They have a good selection of appetizers. On this visit, I had a delicious little quail. Their brie-stuffed portabello mushrooms are also respectable. One of our party had the spinach salad, which was a little over-dressed for the occasion.
All persons in the party had duck in a berry reduction with a side of well-herbed potatoes and fresh vegetables, all of which were very good. The reduction could have been a touch lighter, but I would not hesitate to order this again.
Happily, the gluten-free flourless chocolate cake was on the menu. Why this ever goes off the menu is beyond me, because it is rich and fabulous. Bravo!
As usual, service was good. The staff care. As for the ambience, it is pleasant and comfortable. They have achieved a nice result on what was likely a careful budget. The white linen is a nice touch. Incognito also does events (and regularly hosts various functions for the nearby hospital), which could come in handy for the gluten-free event planner.
Tel 905-296-5832
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Visit: August, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good to Excellent
Cost: Inexpensive to Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: We have returned to Incognito several times. They make consistently good food and almost rank as excellent. They have fallen short by a tendency to pile up food (rendering flavours less distinct) and sometimes a tendency to slightly heavy sauces, which we feel unnecessarily covers the taste of the underlying food. Portions are generous, and typically larger than necessary. However, Incognito is trying to provide value in the tough Hamilton market, and they achieve this in spades.
For the gluten-free eater, they offer a good selection of foods. They generally avoid flour in their sauces, although always ask about the soups. Like most places, they will occasionally slip up. Expect an occasional breadstick lying over your salad.
They have a good selection of appetizers. On this visit, I had a delicious little quail. Their brie-stuffed portabello mushrooms are also respectable. One of our party had the spinach salad, which was a little over-dressed for the occasion.
All persons in the party had duck in a berry reduction with a side of well-herbed potatoes and fresh vegetables, all of which were very good. The reduction could have been a touch lighter, but I would not hesitate to order this again.
Happily, the gluten-free flourless chocolate cake was on the menu. Why this ever goes off the menu is beyond me, because it is rich and fabulous. Bravo!
As usual, service was good. The staff care. As for the ambience, it is pleasant and comfortable. They have achieved a nice result on what was likely a careful budget. The white linen is a nice touch. Incognito also does events (and regularly hosts various functions for the nearby hospital), which could come in handy for the gluten-free event planner.
Navigating Restaurants when Gluten is the Enemy
If you are trying to completely avoid gluten, then restaurants are a minefield. If you are trying to live a normal industrial world existence, then you will go to restaurants. Although we are still learning, here are a few things we've found.
You are the Consumer The key is polite insistence. You must start by assuming the restaurant staff are uninformed. You must be willing--as respectfully and politely as possible--to second guess and to question. While I tend to be apologetic, it typically comes out as "I'm sorry to be a pain in the ass, but I need to ask you if any flour is added to the sauce."
Unfortunately, not even those appearing to recognize your condition are aware of all the traps. You will also encounter staff who suggest it is okay to have ‘just a bit’. If you are celiac, this is unfortunately untrue. Remember that this is an exchange of money for service. You are right to be respectful, but you are also right to eat safely.
A Touch of Zen Fundamentally, you are trying to protect your health, and sometimes that will require that you sacrifice desire. Not every restaurant is safe. Yet sharing time with people you care about and seeing the world will occasionally require you to eat limited fare, which in Western countries is typically another damn salad.
Choosing Cuisine If you are reading this, chances are that you grew up in the wrong country in terms of eating gluten-free. But then again, it could be worse.
Among the safer cuisines for the celiac would be Indian, Thai, and Vietnamese. These diets tend to use beans or rice as a base, generally avoiding the gluten issue.
Conversely, Chinese, Korean, and Japanese diets are more treacherous, mostly on account of soy sauce. And while soy sauce can be safe, industrial production tends to add wheat for purposes of cost and taste. Outside of unadorned sushi, soy sauce is ubiquitous here. If you think your food contains no soy sauce, consider whether it might contain red miso, which often (but not always) contains barley. Go over seas, add in a language barrier and hosts with little exposure to gluten-free clients, and you have your work cut out for you.
In Western countries, bread, breading, and seemingly indiscriminate wheat sprinkling are a product of industrial production and consumer taste. Thus my preferred option is the independent bistro, where the staff tend to care about their food--and know what is in it. Short-order cooks are a hazard for the gluten-free, with the possible exception being the highly regimented corporate kitchen. Swiss Chalet, for example, has a plausible allergen list. You just have to want to go there.
Note that most of the above cuisines can be safely prepared at home by choosing gluten-free versions of each ingredient.
Aids to Dining Apart from staying sharp, you may find it handy to carry cards that describe your eating requirements. TriumphDining has a respectable version. These are particularly useful when you are facing a language barrier, although I frequently think I should employ them more locally.
Aglutinous Priest While the amateur proselytizer wins few friends, you can improve your future culinary options (and those of your gluten-free breathren) in subtle ways. I typically employ the words "celiac" and "gluten-free" so that the wait staff become accustomed to the terms. I go out of my way to be polite and deferential. I tip generously. It is my hope that "gluten-free" will engender positive feelings in waitstaff.
You are the Consumer The key is polite insistence. You must start by assuming the restaurant staff are uninformed. You must be willing--as respectfully and politely as possible--to second guess and to question. While I tend to be apologetic, it typically comes out as "I'm sorry to be a pain in the ass, but I need to ask you if any flour is added to the sauce."
Unfortunately, not even those appearing to recognize your condition are aware of all the traps. You will also encounter staff who suggest it is okay to have ‘just a bit’. If you are celiac, this is unfortunately untrue. Remember that this is an exchange of money for service. You are right to be respectful, but you are also right to eat safely.
A Touch of Zen Fundamentally, you are trying to protect your health, and sometimes that will require that you sacrifice desire. Not every restaurant is safe. Yet sharing time with people you care about and seeing the world will occasionally require you to eat limited fare, which in Western countries is typically another damn salad.
Choosing Cuisine If you are reading this, chances are that you grew up in the wrong country in terms of eating gluten-free. But then again, it could be worse.
Among the safer cuisines for the celiac would be Indian, Thai, and Vietnamese. These diets tend to use beans or rice as a base, generally avoiding the gluten issue.
Conversely, Chinese, Korean, and Japanese diets are more treacherous, mostly on account of soy sauce. And while soy sauce can be safe, industrial production tends to add wheat for purposes of cost and taste. Outside of unadorned sushi, soy sauce is ubiquitous here. If you think your food contains no soy sauce, consider whether it might contain red miso, which often (but not always) contains barley. Go over seas, add in a language barrier and hosts with little exposure to gluten-free clients, and you have your work cut out for you.
In Western countries, bread, breading, and seemingly indiscriminate wheat sprinkling are a product of industrial production and consumer taste. Thus my preferred option is the independent bistro, where the staff tend to care about their food--and know what is in it. Short-order cooks are a hazard for the gluten-free, with the possible exception being the highly regimented corporate kitchen. Swiss Chalet, for example, has a plausible allergen list. You just have to want to go there.
Note that most of the above cuisines can be safely prepared at home by choosing gluten-free versions of each ingredient.
Aids to Dining Apart from staying sharp, you may find it handy to carry cards that describe your eating requirements. TriumphDining has a respectable version. These are particularly useful when you are facing a language barrier, although I frequently think I should employ them more locally.
Aglutinous Priest While the amateur proselytizer wins few friends, you can improve your future culinary options (and those of your gluten-free breathren) in subtle ways. I typically employ the words "celiac" and "gluten-free" so that the wait staff become accustomed to the terms. I go out of my way to be polite and deferential. I tip generously. It is my hope that "gluten-free" will engender positive feelings in waitstaff.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Food Philosophy
As food lovers living outside of a major metropolis, we found it difficult to find useful restaurant reviews. It doesn't get any easier when one of the team is celiac. Hence this blog.
Our Food Philosophy: We believe simple flavours are best; sauces should complement and not overwhelm the food. Flavours need space to be appreciated and become muddled when mixed. We are therefore not fans of the food pile. And less is more when it comes to portion size. As most North Americans, we are more at risk of obesity than starvation.
It may go without saying that food makes or breaks a restaurant. A not-so-distant second in importance is the quality of service; service can reinforce good quality food or destroy the restaurant experience. Of least importance is ambiance. While we enjoy an interesting or refined environment, we’re happy to eat great food in a plain or even-run down establishment, as long as it is clean.
Our Food Philosophy: We believe simple flavours are best; sauces should complement and not overwhelm the food. Flavours need space to be appreciated and become muddled when mixed. We are therefore not fans of the food pile. And less is more when it comes to portion size. As most North Americans, we are more at risk of obesity than starvation.
It may go without saying that food makes or breaks a restaurant. A not-so-distant second in importance is the quality of service; service can reinforce good quality food or destroy the restaurant experience. Of least importance is ambiance. While we enjoy an interesting or refined environment, we’re happy to eat great food in a plain or even-run down establishment, as long as it is clean.
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