Red Canoe

398 John St
Burlington, Ontario
905-637-6137

Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent

Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable.

Description:  It is always with trepidation that I dine at a newly opened restaurant.  There is, of course, the uncertainty about dining safety.  But more than that, there is an anxiety felt on behalf of the chef / owner.  Starting a business is a bold act; in the case of a chef, you not only risk your wallet, you expose your craft.

And so it was with relief and joy that the meal unfolded.  Having mentioned the celiac issue, chef Tobias Pohl-Weary graciously agreed to review the menu, which is both ambitious and diverse.  It includes an optional five-course tasting menu at a very reasonable $62, but on that night it contained three gluten containing courses.  The intrepid chef Tobias offered to render it gluten-free, but I'm a low-key advocate, not a sadist. The menu does read as a bit expensive, with some appetizers exceeding $15 and some main dishes in the $30's.  But the ingredients used are also expensive, ranging from bison and ostrich to escargot and lobster. 

As we waited, the gluten lovers enjoyed some good bread (made off site) with hummus.  Appetizers included bison tartare, which was rich and peppery, and not overly gamey.  We could not quite dissect the marinade, but it added a nice depth.  The comforting escargot swam in a cumin type broth.  In this instance, instead of riding on a crust of baguette, it saddled up on some crisp papadum.  This GF alternative was appreciated.  Finally, according to our Ukrainian-bred diner, the lobster perogies would have made baba proud. 

For the main course, two of us engaged the goose cassoulet.  This dish might be considered a bistro test (as well as a test of your kidneys).  Red Canoe kept the theme of fowl and sausage on beans, but made it a touch lighter, likely the result of less fat in the beans and the light berry compote.  A conservative size, this dish delighted and satisfied without leaving heavy regrets.  The dark ale short ribs got raves, and its accompanying mashed potatoes reportedly qualified as an extra dessert.  Finally, the perch wrapped in a very smokey salmon was well appreciated.

Dessert options were reasonable.  Two of us had the "cookies and milk", an ice cream float in hot Mexican style chocolate with little cookies on the side.  It was rich enough to marry and the cookies were reportedly divine.  "Kelly's pears" upside down cake--usually a product of one of the wait staff's trees--was this night an inverted plum cake.  It scored well.

Service was good, with attention to liquid refills.  It was not fast, but this suited our relaxed evening.  The decor is comfortable and warm, but not unnecessarily upscale.  Tasting menu items were displayed on a quaint chalk board hung over the bench seating. 

Red Canoe is billed as modern Canadian cuisine, and although Canada's diversity renders such a definition elusive, I would be content if chef Tobias's rich and fresh offerings comprised part of the story.  The longer term challenge may be in balancing the solid bistro backbone with the edge of innovation.  So far, so good.