82 Ontario St.
Toronto, Ontario
M5A 2V3
416-840-2459
Type of cuisine: Thai
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Anxious
Description: On this night, Mengrai messed up. Based on the positive reviews and gluten-free enticements of friends, we signed up to test run this Thai establishment. The menu itself is varied and appealing, but for the GF eater, there is something better: gluten-free item labels.
These in hand, we selected a number of items, as well as a couple of fruity alcoholic concoctions. Soon, our waitress was back to indicate that one of the items did contain a small amount of gluten, as the fish in the dish was breaded. As the gluten alert system rushed from a comforting green to an angry red, we tried to point out that gluten was not a 'gray' thing, it was black and white.
There can be NO gluten. Not. One. Bit.
Should you be relieved they pointed this out? Should you now worry about all the other labeled items on the menu? Should you be concerned that when I subsequently tried to verify the provenance of a soy sauce (most contain wheat) the waiter only replied "I told the chef that everything was gluten free." I will never know.
But let's pretend you like gluten. You win. The food is great. To start, the lemongrass coconut soup was a soothing bowl of palm fat yum. Small for four (but good for two) was the fresh and zesty mango salad with chicken satay. Our walk down the Thai street style Pad Thai was a tasty excursion. I savoured the Thai basil eggplant, which offered a subtle blend of flavours with perfect texture. The elegant Penang curry with chicken was rich and spicy alone and as a rice bath. Not bad but less interesting was the Chinese broccoli and mushroom. For dessert, the ice cream was proclaimed interesting while the flourless chocolate cupcake was solid enough though not best in show.
Unlike the food, service was poor. While alcohol usually comes early as part of good business practice, our drinks became distinctly lonely. Similarly, the green tea with dessert came as we were essentially standing to leave; this, after politely asking for it twice. The communication uncertainty was described above. The bill was nearly unpayable for reason of delay, which is only good if you can actually leave without paying.
The ambiance is fresh and entertaining. The restaurant is arranged as a side split in what seemed to be a converted warehouse. Old metal doors along the wall keep you guessing about the building's past. The decor is interesting, with various Thai art and icons hanging about.
I suppose the summary is disappointment. Gluten-free labels are great. You just have to trust them and the people who report them.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Sunday, October 25, 2009
George Restaurant
111c Queen St. East
Toronto, Ontario M5C 1S2
416-368-6006
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: George is a very good restaurant, one that makes you conscious of your own good fortune.
The menu is divided into courses. To look at the prices, you might assume they were all principal plates. But the portions are moderate, and the firsts and seconds are meant to be part of the trip toward the main third. Cheese and dessert round out the plan. Based on the prices of individual items, the 5, 7, and 10 course tasting menus don't seem overly dear. With the exception of dessert, the menu options are fairly open for the gluten-free eater.
To start, the amuse bouche of smoked trout and a little stuffed pepper was a lox-like delight. While the Wagyu beef was declared excellent, the soy sauce addition (containing wheat) left the GF diner happily diverted to an octopus salad with greens and a lively little fruit compote. They must have caught the slow and soft octopus, because this little feller was fork tender. Another diner 'firsted' on the lobster roll with lentils, fig, endive, and brussel sprouts. The happy groans were embarrassing. For a second, the braised shortrib was juicy, nicely compact, and utterly tender. The Togarashi scallops also performed well.
For the main, three of the party chose the Nunavut Turbot, an ironclad case for arctic sovereignty if ever there was one. The rebellious fourth member made out with the bison ribeye, and she didn't look back.
With our Lipitor on standby, we shared a very fine Canadian cheese plate. Canada may be working on a trade deal with the European Union, but we shouldn't be doing it for cheese access. Our domestic goods are top notch.
It is unusual to encounter a restaurant where there is absolutely no available gluten-free dessert choice. But none of the four items, all of which sounded good on paper, made the cut. This is a bit of a disappointment for an otherwise fine meal.
Service was friendly and crisp. The wait staff were tolerant of polite verifications on the gluten status of food items. Dishes were announced as being gluten free as they were delivered. Water was refreshed and delivery and clearance of food items were often coordinated between pairs of waiters. The setting is comfortable, if a bit noisy when all the tables were full. The ironwork gave the otherwise open space the feeling of a somewhat dated Portuguese establishment, but the feeling was warm.
George makes great food. The faults to be found are minor, and, fate willing, we will return.
Toronto, Ontario M5C 1S2
416-368-6006
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable
Description: George is a very good restaurant, one that makes you conscious of your own good fortune.
The menu is divided into courses. To look at the prices, you might assume they were all principal plates. But the portions are moderate, and the firsts and seconds are meant to be part of the trip toward the main third. Cheese and dessert round out the plan. Based on the prices of individual items, the 5, 7, and 10 course tasting menus don't seem overly dear. With the exception of dessert, the menu options are fairly open for the gluten-free eater.
Braised shortrib. Don't leave George without it.
For the main, three of the party chose the Nunavut Turbot, an ironclad case for arctic sovereignty if ever there was one. The rebellious fourth member made out with the bison ribeye, and she didn't look back.
Nunavut Turbot. Fish can follow meat when it's this good.
With our Lipitor on standby, we shared a very fine Canadian cheese plate. Canada may be working on a trade deal with the European Union, but we shouldn't be doing it for cheese access. Our domestic goods are top notch.
It is unusual to encounter a restaurant where there is absolutely no available gluten-free dessert choice. But none of the four items, all of which sounded good on paper, made the cut. This is a bit of a disappointment for an otherwise fine meal.
Service was friendly and crisp. The wait staff were tolerant of polite verifications on the gluten status of food items. Dishes were announced as being gluten free as they were delivered. Water was refreshed and delivery and clearance of food items were often coordinated between pairs of waiters. The setting is comfortable, if a bit noisy when all the tables were full. The ironwork gave the otherwise open space the feeling of a somewhat dated Portuguese establishment, but the feeling was warm.
George makes great food. The faults to be found are minor, and, fate willing, we will return.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Pure Spirits Oyster House and Grill
55 Mill Street
Toronto, Ontario
416-361-5859
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable to Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Toronto's Distillery District has a touristy charm that typically serves as a red flag for good food. Comprised of several old red brick warehouses now housing various shops and eating establishments, it is an enjoyable place to linger for a few hours. Just don't trip over the cobblestone or all the bridal parties coming for photo shoots.
I am pleased to write that Pure Spirits Oyster House broke ranks with over-priced tourist kibble. The menu is comprised of seafood and some meat options, and was straightforward enough that several GF options were present.
To open, the table shared fresh oysters. I am not an oyster aficionado, but these had a lovely texture, were not the faintest bit fishy, and conveyed a gentle zing with their little tufts of freshly grated horseradish. As an appetizer, I had the seared Digby scallops, which were perfectly done and sat on a fresh corn bed nicely blended with herbs. My table mates shared a fresh salad. The seared great lakes whitefish served as a delightful main. The sweet balsamic and fresh tomato accompaniment did not overwhelm the fish. Another diner had the bouillabaisse, which was reported to be very good. Two others at our table raved about the Dungeness crab "mac n cheese". To drink, we shared a Lillypilly 2008 sauvignan blanc, a lovely Australian ambassador.
The service was amiable, and although the waiter did not appear celiac savvy, he engaged the issue. Water refills were given without request, and wine was similarly poured. The restaurant felt large yet warm and comfortable. Your eyes tend to wander over the magnificent old beams and the old photographs. Note that the windows are single pane, and sitting near them might be a bit chilly in the winter.
Can we distill this down? Pure Spirits does great seafood, and does it mid-continent in a potential tourist trap.
Toronto, Ontario
416-361-5859
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable to Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Toronto's Distillery District has a touristy charm that typically serves as a red flag for good food. Comprised of several old red brick warehouses now housing various shops and eating establishments, it is an enjoyable place to linger for a few hours. Just don't trip over the cobblestone or all the bridal parties coming for photo shoots.
I am pleased to write that Pure Spirits Oyster House broke ranks with over-priced tourist kibble. The menu is comprised of seafood and some meat options, and was straightforward enough that several GF options were present.
To open, the table shared fresh oysters. I am not an oyster aficionado, but these had a lovely texture, were not the faintest bit fishy, and conveyed a gentle zing with their little tufts of freshly grated horseradish. As an appetizer, I had the seared Digby scallops, which were perfectly done and sat on a fresh corn bed nicely blended with herbs. My table mates shared a fresh salad. The seared great lakes whitefish served as a delightful main. The sweet balsamic and fresh tomato accompaniment did not overwhelm the fish. Another diner had the bouillabaisse, which was reported to be very good. Two others at our table raved about the Dungeness crab "mac n cheese". To drink, we shared a Lillypilly 2008 sauvignan blanc, a lovely Australian ambassador.
The service was amiable, and although the waiter did not appear celiac savvy, he engaged the issue. Water refills were given without request, and wine was similarly poured. The restaurant felt large yet warm and comfortable. Your eyes tend to wander over the magnificent old beams and the old photographs. Note that the windows are single pane, and sitting near them might be a bit chilly in the winter.
Can we distill this down? Pure Spirits does great seafood, and does it mid-continent in a potential tourist trap.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Mikado Japanese Restaurant
415 Elizabeth Street,
Burlington, Ontario
(905) 333-4718
Type of cuisine: Japanese / Korean
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Very restricted
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Sushi is an attractive gluten-free cuisine, but it does have its limits. Soy sauce, except for the rare restaurant using the more expensive wheat-free tamari, is out. So is tempura, fake crab (found in rolls), tempura bits (tucked into some rolls), teriyaki anything, some miso, and most marinades. Therefore, you count on the very basics to be available: rice, sushi, and a couple of rolls. When a restaurant has trouble with these, it is a little frustrating. And when one of the owners sits at your table repeatedly and points to the quality of her food, yet seems oddly uninformed about her actual ingredients, you are left a little uncertain. This restaurant only ranks as cautiously comfortable for celiacs because I ate almost nothing that was not comprised of a single ingredient.
The good? To start, the edamame was fine. The tempura was reported as being light and good. The fish was fresh enough, if a little cold. The actual fish selection was quite restricted, however, even for the large shared Love Boat. It is certainly better to have fresh than a variety of not fresh fish, but there is a point at which your interest will wane.
The not so good? After boasting about her home made fruit dressing for the salad, our owner/host could not seem to list a single ingredient and ultimately advised a completely plain salad. When I went to order the sushi and sashimi plate, which included one roll, I was talked down to the sashimi plate. Again, our host was either uninformed or uninterested when it came to the nature of the vinegar in the sushi rice. (Rarely, a wheat containing version of mirin may be employed.) She thus quickly recommended steamed rice. Frankly, once you have lost faith in the restaurant staff, the only comfortable thing to do is play it completely safe.
Dessert was the typical green tea ice cream, although we were pointedly told this was class 'A' ice cream, and not the lesser B or C. Similarly, it was made clear that all the teas were a very high quality.
This leads us to service. All in the party agreed the owners were too friendly. I enjoy an engaging waiter, proprietor, or chef, but repeated claims on the fine quality of the food (which I shall judge myself, thank you), the mojo-enhancing properties of the tea (amusing once, but not thrice), and another less than savory story I shall spare the reader--well, all this goes quite beyond the pale.
In sum, you might try this restaurant if you are not gluten restricted. But you might be advised to fill all the seats at your table.
Burlington, Ontario
(905) 333-4718
Type of cuisine: Japanese / Korean
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Very restricted
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable
Description: Sushi is an attractive gluten-free cuisine, but it does have its limits. Soy sauce, except for the rare restaurant using the more expensive wheat-free tamari, is out. So is tempura, fake crab (found in rolls), tempura bits (tucked into some rolls), teriyaki anything, some miso, and most marinades. Therefore, you count on the very basics to be available: rice, sushi, and a couple of rolls. When a restaurant has trouble with these, it is a little frustrating. And when one of the owners sits at your table repeatedly and points to the quality of her food, yet seems oddly uninformed about her actual ingredients, you are left a little uncertain. This restaurant only ranks as cautiously comfortable for celiacs because I ate almost nothing that was not comprised of a single ingredient.
The good? To start, the edamame was fine. The tempura was reported as being light and good. The fish was fresh enough, if a little cold. The actual fish selection was quite restricted, however, even for the large shared Love Boat. It is certainly better to have fresh than a variety of not fresh fish, but there is a point at which your interest will wane.
The not so good? After boasting about her home made fruit dressing for the salad, our owner/host could not seem to list a single ingredient and ultimately advised a completely plain salad. When I went to order the sushi and sashimi plate, which included one roll, I was talked down to the sashimi plate. Again, our host was either uninformed or uninterested when it came to the nature of the vinegar in the sushi rice. (Rarely, a wheat containing version of mirin may be employed.) She thus quickly recommended steamed rice. Frankly, once you have lost faith in the restaurant staff, the only comfortable thing to do is play it completely safe.
Dessert was the typical green tea ice cream, although we were pointedly told this was class 'A' ice cream, and not the lesser B or C. Similarly, it was made clear that all the teas were a very high quality.
This leads us to service. All in the party agreed the owners were too friendly. I enjoy an engaging waiter, proprietor, or chef, but repeated claims on the fine quality of the food (which I shall judge myself, thank you), the mojo-enhancing properties of the tea (amusing once, but not thrice), and another less than savory story I shall spare the reader--well, all this goes quite beyond the pale.
In sum, you might try this restaurant if you are not gluten restricted. But you might be advised to fill all the seats at your table.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Red Canoe
398 John St
Burlington, Ontario
905-637-6137
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable.
Description: It is always with trepidation that I dine at a newly opened restaurant. There is, of course, the uncertainty about dining safety. But more than that, there is an anxiety felt on behalf of the chef / owner. Starting a business is a bold act; in the case of a chef, you not only risk your wallet, you expose your craft.
And so it was with relief and joy that the meal unfolded. Having mentioned the celiac issue, chef Tobias Pohl-Weary graciously agreed to review the menu, which is both ambitious and diverse. It includes an optional five-course tasting menu at a very reasonable $62, but on that night it contained three gluten containing courses. The intrepid chef Tobias offered to render it gluten-free, but I'm a low-key advocate, not a sadist. The menu does read as a bit expensive, with some appetizers exceeding $15 and some main dishes in the $30's. But the ingredients used are also expensive, ranging from bison and ostrich to escargot and lobster.
As we waited, the gluten lovers enjoyed some good bread (made off site) with hummus. Appetizers included bison tartare, which was rich and peppery, and not overly gamey. We could not quite dissect the marinade, but it added a nice depth. The comforting escargot swam in a cumin type broth. In this instance, instead of riding on a crust of baguette, it saddled up on some crisp papadum. This GF alternative was appreciated. Finally, according to our Ukrainian-bred diner, the lobster perogies would have made baba proud.
For the main course, two of us engaged the goose cassoulet. This dish might be considered a bistro test (as well as a test of your kidneys). Red Canoe kept the theme of fowl and sausage on beans, but made it a touch lighter, likely the result of less fat in the beans and the light berry compote. A conservative size, this dish delighted and satisfied without leaving heavy regrets. The dark ale short ribs got raves, and its accompanying mashed potatoes reportedly qualified as an extra dessert. Finally, the perch wrapped in a very smokey salmon was well appreciated.
Dessert options were reasonable. Two of us had the "cookies and milk", an ice cream float in hot Mexican style chocolate with little cookies on the side. It was rich enough to marry and the cookies were reportedly divine. "Kelly's pears" upside down cake--usually a product of one of the wait staff's trees--was this night an inverted plum cake. It scored well.
Service was good, with attention to liquid refills. It was not fast, but this suited our relaxed evening. The decor is comfortable and warm, but not unnecessarily upscale. Tasting menu items were displayed on a quaint chalk board hung over the bench seating.
Red Canoe is billed as modern Canadian cuisine, and although Canada's diversity renders such a definition elusive, I would be content if chef Tobias's rich and fresh offerings comprised part of the story. The longer term challenge may be in balancing the solid bistro backbone with the edge of innovation. So far, so good.
Burlington, Ontario
905-637-6137
Type of cuisine: Bistro
Date of Review: October, 2009
Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable.
Description: It is always with trepidation that I dine at a newly opened restaurant. There is, of course, the uncertainty about dining safety. But more than that, there is an anxiety felt on behalf of the chef / owner. Starting a business is a bold act; in the case of a chef, you not only risk your wallet, you expose your craft.
And so it was with relief and joy that the meal unfolded. Having mentioned the celiac issue, chef Tobias Pohl-Weary graciously agreed to review the menu, which is both ambitious and diverse. It includes an optional five-course tasting menu at a very reasonable $62, but on that night it contained three gluten containing courses. The intrepid chef Tobias offered to render it gluten-free, but I'm a low-key advocate, not a sadist. The menu does read as a bit expensive, with some appetizers exceeding $15 and some main dishes in the $30's. But the ingredients used are also expensive, ranging from bison and ostrich to escargot and lobster.
As we waited, the gluten lovers enjoyed some good bread (made off site) with hummus. Appetizers included bison tartare, which was rich and peppery, and not overly gamey. We could not quite dissect the marinade, but it added a nice depth. The comforting escargot swam in a cumin type broth. In this instance, instead of riding on a crust of baguette, it saddled up on some crisp papadum. This GF alternative was appreciated. Finally, according to our Ukrainian-bred diner, the lobster perogies would have made baba proud.
For the main course, two of us engaged the goose cassoulet. This dish might be considered a bistro test (as well as a test of your kidneys). Red Canoe kept the theme of fowl and sausage on beans, but made it a touch lighter, likely the result of less fat in the beans and the light berry compote. A conservative size, this dish delighted and satisfied without leaving heavy regrets. The dark ale short ribs got raves, and its accompanying mashed potatoes reportedly qualified as an extra dessert. Finally, the perch wrapped in a very smokey salmon was well appreciated.
Dessert options were reasonable. Two of us had the "cookies and milk", an ice cream float in hot Mexican style chocolate with little cookies on the side. It was rich enough to marry and the cookies were reportedly divine. "Kelly's pears" upside down cake--usually a product of one of the wait staff's trees--was this night an inverted plum cake. It scored well.
Service was good, with attention to liquid refills. It was not fast, but this suited our relaxed evening. The decor is comfortable and warm, but not unnecessarily upscale. Tasting menu items were displayed on a quaint chalk board hung over the bench seating.
Red Canoe is billed as modern Canadian cuisine, and although Canada's diversity renders such a definition elusive, I would be content if chef Tobias's rich and fresh offerings comprised part of the story. The longer term challenge may be in balancing the solid bistro backbone with the edge of innovation. So far, so good.
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