Delux

92 Ossington Ave
Toronto, ON
(416) 537-0134

Type of cuisine: French Bistro
Date of Review: March, 2010

Overall Quality Ranking: Okay

Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable

Description:   It was a Saturday night when we hit this energetic bistro at the border of Little Portugal and Little Italy.  Eventually, we were taken past the booths at the front to our table at the less hectic back section of the restaurant.

Looking at the menu, the selection seemed reasonable and offered typically attractive French options.  Unfortunately, by the time we arrived--which wasn't late--the goat cheese salad and the gnocci had both been consumed.  As she helped us navigate our selections, our waitress was friendly.  While she had heard the term 'gluten-free', she was not familiar with the meaning. 

As for the eating, the bread, which should be a French staple, was dry and seemed a bit old.  By contrast, an order of the fresh Massachusetts oysters went down clean and tangy.  The pear and blue cheese salad appetizer was quite good and the charcuterie also earned kudos, particularly the pork roulette.

For the mains, two diners chose the bouillabaisse.  It was agreed that the fish and scallops were very fresh, but one diner felt the dish was too salty.  The steak frites were reported to hit the spot.  My cassoulet was very good, with tender duck and a fresh and bright-tasting house-made sausage.  The wine, a Weinert 2004 Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina, was very good.

In part for reasons of time, we did not venture into dessert.  As I think of it, the consumption of dessert tends to be a marker of restaurant quality.  With divine food and good service, the dining winds will usually carry me to the island of sweets even when my overloaded stomach is warning of rocky shoals.  If either food quality or service is off, the spell of the food can be broken, and we start thinking of the next item on the evening's agenda.

As mentioned, the wait staff were friendly, and water refills were steady.  The biggest challenge from the service perspective was time.  Out reserved table was not ready for perhaps 10 minutes, which is no crime on a Saturday night.  But we were not able to place our order for a further 30 minutes, and the delivery of the main courses was substantially delayed after the appetizer.  A leisurely pace is good for conversation and digestion, but when you begin to marvel at the passage of time, you have arrived at another pace entirely.

The ambiance was mixed.  I confess that I am not one for loud restaurants, and the music and competing voices of the patrons were uncomfortable.  In the front of the restaurant, we would have been yelling our conversation, while at the back it was more reasonable.  Apart from not being relaxing, communication is important for careful gluten-free dining, so if you come on the weekend, ask to be at the back.   

The atmosphere is casual and spare, with a touch of chic.  The booths in the front looked comfortable, and the hanging fireplace in the back was 1970 groovy.  The music was good, although too loud. 

Would I come again?  Yes, but probably only at somebody else's request.  And ideally it would be on a weekday, when audio volume might be toned down and the service speed might be toned up.