Quatrefoils

16 Sydenham Street
Dundas, Ontario
905-628-7800 

Type of cuisine: French
Date of Review: September, 2010

Overall Quality Ranking: Excellent

Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Comfortable

Description:  Yes, you can get darn good food outside of Toronto.  After apparently struggling with regulations and sinking a pile of money into the establishment, Quatrefoils is now earning kudos from its patrons. 

The menu is tight, not unnecessarily long.  It met my preference for a focused, fresh sampling with good food turnover rather than an 8-page "please everybody" menu.  No, the menu is not vegetarian focused, but yes, a vegetarian could find a satisfying meal here with a soup or salad and gnocci.  Otherwise, fish and meat reign and most of the menu can accommodate the gluten-free eater. 

The four of us shared a nice Domaine des Anges 2006 Ventoux, which matched our food nicely.  For those inclined, the crispy rolls were very nice.  As an appetizer, we tried the heirloom tomoto salad with arugula and pesto, which was perfectly ripe and a perfect room temperature.  The Foie gras torchon, which I took without the toast, was well portioned (i.e. small) and came with cherries, lettuce, and a sherry jelly--no toast required.  It was a delight. 

Foie Gras Torchons - That'll be three slices of Yum!

For the main, I had the flank steak and frites--something I'm frequently tempted to do when the fries are not cross-contaminated--and was happy on both accounts.  The steak was excellent and the frites top notch, although I'm afraid cholesterol pills don't come as a side.  A fellow diner went with the duck with an orange sauce, and had no regrets.  It was nicely done and nicely accompanied.  One tablemate did have the lightly herbed gnocci with sweet baby squash and found it satisfying but not overly heavy.  Another had the rack of lamb with home made lamb ravioli and declared himself a very happy and contented diner, though he was generous enough to share.

Settling in for the final chapter, two of use shared the baked chocolate mousse, which was rich and excellent.  Our partners shared the blueberry lemon cake and were equally happy.

Service was top notch.  Making everything from scratch, the kitchen had no difficulty with gluten avoidance.  The physical space was clean and refined, with interesting sconces evoking both a nod to Hamilton metal working and an update on the traditional crystal variety.  It is evident they dropped some coin on the place.  The patio was also beautiful, and I hope to return in warmer days.

Quatrefoils is a great restaurant.  May it thrive and grow roots in this great community.