Posada Los Juncos, Bariloche

Posada Los Juncos
Ave Bustillo, km 20
Bariloche, Argentina

I have to give more than a nod to the small inn we stayed in, Posada Los Juncos.  It ranks 5 out of 5 stars on TripAdvisor, and it deserves all of them for the hospitality, chic/rustic atmosphere (there is more 'cool' in this inn than I shall muster in a lifetime), and great food. 

Gaby, brother to the gracious hostess, Flavia, is the cook  Defying apparent inefficiency, Gaby provides a choice of three entres, three principal plates, and three desserts every night to the five rooms...or not.  It is up to you.  While prices are not cheap by Argentinian standards, they are by no means outrageous for what amounts to a private dining room.  The food itself if fresh and creative.  Gaby plays a little strong on dessert flavours, but everything is homemade, including the bread.  And here is where I was pierced through by an arrow of undying devotion; Gaby tried his hand at gluten-free bread.  Simply trying is all it takes.  Like burnt toast from a loving child, it is a gift you accept with heartfelt thanks. And yes, it was modest, and yes, it sucked the moisture out of your mouth like so many GF products do, but I could only encourage such bravery by asking for seconds.

Lago Argentino 

Two small caveats would not dissuade me from staying again:  first, it is 20km west of Bariloche, meaning it is well situated for some but not all destinations, and two, it is not at all secluded, although it is quiet enough at night.

Estancia Nibepo Aike, El Cafate

A ranch at the end of the road south of El Calafate, Estancia Nipebo Aike provided an experience I hope to replicate if ever I return.  The two ranches we stayed at on our trip to Argentina offered beautiful scenery, a sanctuary from the busy life of the city, and the slower peaceful pace you associate with the country.  Apart from some great horse riding and hiking and stunning scenery, this ranch offered great food.

Nipebo Aike -- Where every pic is postcard perfect.      

Although I do not know the name of the chef, he earned my heartfelt appreciation.  Meat is a feature of lunch and dinner here, but this posed no problem.  In fact, they have an on site restaurant dedicated to meat.  You don't really order; you just wait for the fresh meat to come in piles. 

Real.  Fresh.  Lamb.

 
Like Los Juncos, the impressive thing here was the willingness of the chef to improvise.  First, the soups were declared to be flour free and were fresh and simple.  One night, in lieu of standard cannelloni, the chef prepared a corn version.  Stuffed with cheese and spinach and topped with tomato and lamb, this dish had it all.  The dessert that night was a delicious layered fruit, cream, and corn trifle, a one-off for the celiac. On another occasion, making something totally different than the other diners, he prepared a crispy corn bowl filled with vegetables and cheese. Finally, when we requested a picnic lunch to visit a nearby glacier, he procured a dish of meat, polenta, cheese, and fresh tomato sauce.  Since that time, the chef has been kidnapped and now makes regular lunches for me from his basement cell.

Crispy Corn Bowl Creation

One caveat here is that the breakfasts were poor from the celiac perspective.  I was glad to have brought a stash of GF granola.  In his defense, I don't think the chef gets the discredit for this.

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is big, some 14 million persons in the greater metropolitan area, and there is no shortage of eating establishments.  If you want to dine in your apartment or room, there are health food stores that offer gluten-free foods.  Labelled as above, these foods are not hard to pick out.  In fact, a visit to one of these stores can stock you up on 'just in case' foods and provide fare for picnics.  Check out Dietetica Cuarto Soles (Juncal 2376 in Recoleta) and others. Several establishments worked very well for this gluten-free eater.

 Celigourmet (Thames 1633, Palermo Soho) is a totally gluten-free bakery in Palermo Soho.  Yes, the 'Soho' is a gimmick, but Palermo is a fun area to wander about, and Celigourmet offers great pastries and other portable delights. They offer a limited supply of bread

         Celigourmet--A happy pile of yummies.        

Muma's Cupcakes (Malabia 1680, Palermo Soho) is not exclusively a gluten-free bakery, and I can not speak to their contamination protocols in the kitchen, but I can speak to the rich chocolate and sweet cream that slid between my lips in the company of a fine little coffee.

Muma's Cupcakes--What's rich, hypercaloric, and gone in thirty seconds?

Don Julio (Guatemala 4691 and Gurruchaga) is a parilla (restaurant focused on meat) also in Palerma Soho.  The food, being fairly straightforward, appeared quite safe.  The bife lomo (tenderloin) was tender and tasty, while the sweetbreads (thymus) was meaty in the mouth, a bit spongey in appearance, and not overly gamy.  The vegetables were steamed to the point of mush, but the real vegetable, the Goulart 2007 Malbec, hit the spot.

A diner can not live on meat alone. 

Freddo is a chain offering coffee, a few (non-GF) pastries, and ice cream, including a great selection of ice cream specifically marked gluten-free.  They use individual spoons in each tub, which means you are as close to safe as you will get.  Cultural exploration demands that you sample the dulce de leche flavour.

Argentina

Vegetable Stand, Argentina

If you need a little time in a place far away, in a place with beautiful and varied landscapes, and in a place where the people are as friendly as the food is....meaty...then consider a visit to Argentina.

Argentina the Gluten-Free:  Argentina lends itself to gluten-free eating.  First, the food is kept fairly simple.  Argentinians really do eat a lot of meat (a remarkable 70kg per person annually), but they don't mess it up with overdone sauces.  This leaves little to worry about for the GF eater.  And the official vegetable of Argentina--red wine--is well known to be gluten-free.  Truthfully, vegetables play second fiddle, but they are generally also simply done.

Just as good as this is Argentinian labeling.  Like our European friends, the Argentinians have the little symbol with the wheat stricken off.  Yes, that little 'no gluten' sign that celiacs view with the glee of a jaded lover watching his ex get a flat tire.  They also have a "Sin TACC" label, meaning "without the four nasty grains".  There are, of course, many foods that contain no apparent wheat but which are not so labeled.  While helpful, this can be a double-edged sword.  A greater than expected proportion of waitstaff, and even retail staff, appeared to be aware of the gluten issue.  On occasion, however, this awareness appeared quite superficial, as if understanding was limited to "labeled safe" or "not labeled safe".  While good to know, limiting yourself to "certified" food would be very restrictive.  This is a good argument for learning a bit of the local language.  Sorting this out is not always possible in English.  

Where can I eat?    From restaurants to cafes to gluten-free specialty stores, Argentina can feed you well.  Check out the posts under the Argentina heading.

Rude Native

370 Brant Street
Burlington, Ontario
905-632-6682

Type of cuisine: bistro
Date of Review: December, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Expensive
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Anxious to Cautiously Comfortable

Description:  It was a weeknight when we ventured out to the Native.  Although weekends typically lend a restaurant more energy, you are more likely to have the ear of the waiter on a weeknight if you are navigating a food issue.  So it was in a rather quiet restaurant that we pored over the menu.

The options appear to be reasonable, and the waiter was patient if not aware of the gluten-free issue.  The prices are not particularly cheap, which might not be an issue if the quality of the food was better.  To start, we shared a cold tomato salad with beets and goat cheese.  Likely as a result of low customer volumes, the tomatoes were really quite cold, and the taste of the dressing left the salad ranking as only fair.  As a principal plate, I had halibut with an orange glaze.  Unfortunately, it came off as too simplistically orange, and by texture I suspect it contained corn starch.  It was fine, but nothing to seek out.  Conversely, my fellow diner had the Moroccan curry with couscous, which was reported as good, and might make a soothing spot of pub food.  We both had a glass of wine, but at $11 and $14 for a glass, the Native is charging seriously chic bar rates.  Given the first and second courses, we did not pursue dessert.

Service was fine, if not warm.  The waiter did take the time to question the chef about a gluten issue.  The physical state of the restaurant is unremarkable, and does not warrant the cost of its wine.

The Rude Native may have a few good dishes tucked into its menu, but this first taste left me with relatively little enthusiasm to return and find them.

Maccheroni Cucina Al Fresco

1560 Main Street West
Hamilton, Ontario
(905) 527-6422

Type of cuisine: Italian
Date of Review: January, 2010

Overall Quality Ranking: Okay
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Reasonable
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: Cautiously Comfortable

Description:  As a celiac, writing about an Italian restaurant doesn't entirely seem natural.  In my previous life, I sampled a few, but present circumstances make them a challenge.  And all too frequently, the quality of the pasta can be matched by a bit of work at home.

Maccheroni's recognizes that there is a market for gluten-free Italian.  They use a separate colander to strain their (rice) pasta, and they can reportedly make most of their pasta dishes gluten-free.  Although their appetizer selection is limited for GF eaters, they have reasonable salads and also offer GF pizza, which I understand employs the same crust supplied to PizzaPizza.

The menu selection is therefore reasonable.  On this occasion, and admittedly for the second time, I had their baked ziti.  Doused in cream and cheese and containing a generous portion of bacon, this good if heavy dish could readily feed two.  Slightly monotonous, it might go better with the simple greek salad rather than after it.  On this occasion, all three of us originals chose the same dish.  I am told that on past visits the pizza was also good.

Service is friendly and brisk.  On this Tuesday evening, there were enough other diners to give the place a bit of a buzz.  The decor is pseudo-rustic, with plastic vines and interior trellises; it is comfortable, if a little on the shabby side.

Although restaurant Italian food is not typically my first choice, Maccheroni's offers reasonable fair, and I appreciated their efforts at supporting gluten-free dining.  

Relish Bar and Grill

2154 Danforth Avenue
Toronto, Ontario
416-425-4664

Type of cuisine: Tapas
Date of Review: November, 2009

Overall Quality Ranking: Good
Cost: Moderate
Gluten-Free Menu Options: Good 
Gluten Free Diner Comfort ranking: As Relaxed As It Gets

Description:    Group dinners with shared dishes usually have 'No Celiacs' written all over them.  But Relish is an exception.  In fact, the dedicated celiac menu has enough variety to satisfy even most gluten loving types.  This menu, which is on a completely different card from the standard tapas menu, contains all of the dishes that are gluten free.  In some cases, necessary alterations are mentioned along with the item, such as "Ask for the balsamic glaze" or "Ask for rice crackers," so don't completely abandon vigilance.  Nevertheless, Relish makes it easy.

Despite the potential sharing option, I chose to go it alone.  Worrying about cross-contamination from serving spoons rather spoils my appetite.  In short, for the several items I did not try, an experienced palate gave an overall ranking of good, with no food item garnering a 'yuck'.  As for what I did try, it was quite enjoyable.

First, partaking of the drink menu, I landed a Yellow Bird.  As long as you're fairly secure with yourself, let this fruity little fella take your tongue off to some tropical island.  When you get back, warm up to the warm olives with jalapeno, a little variety pack of zesty goodness.  The sauteed tiger shrimp was moist and tasty, and came in a crispy little shell.  I gave the latter a bit of space as I was hesitant to question our busy waiter whether it had swum with any wheaty deep-fryer companions.

Moving on, I was happy not to share my grilled lamb special, particularly as the standard lamb empanada is not on the celiac menu.  If you like mushrooms, the grilled portobello also makes nice company.  Next, the roasted eggplant and almond butter dip was a comforting and filling topping for the rice cracker vehicle.  And a nice Ninfa 2005 Portugese red kept everything moving down the sluice. Finally, to finish, can you say no to a flourless chocolate polenta cake?  You do only live once.

As for price, it is possible to incur something of a bill if you are on a solo variety mission, but individual items are not over-priced.  They recommend about 3 dishes per person, but I seemed fine with 5 and dessert....so maybe I have a problem.  Regardless, the service was cheery and food delivery moved along nicely.  The decor is comfortable and casual.  Also, they accommodated our group of 12 with aplomb, but the restaurant is not large, so consider reservations. 

In short, I hope to be back, but I also hope to bring a ravenous hoard of the gluten averse next round.  At Relish, it seems sharing can again be fun and safe.